Tuesday, February 14, 2017

Milada Gown



Good morning beautiful people!
Recently on my Facebook page I popped up a post asking if anyone had any requests and one that came in was from June who suggested something with hearts for Valentines day. Such a lovely request and one that immediately sparked some ideas! This is the first that I've finished, and just in time for Valentines too!

This sweet little gown is fully front opening and features a clever little heart stitch, which is made up using clusters! I hope you love it as much as I do.



Milada Gown

Sized To Fit: 
26-28 weeks (2-2.5lbs)

You Will Need:
DK weight yarn in a main colour, and 2 small amounts of contrasting colours.
3mm hook
Desired amount of buttons.

Special Stitches:

Starting cluster: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 on hook), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.

Cluster: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 on hook), yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (4 on hook) yarn over and pull through all 4 loops.

1: Ch93, dc into the 3rd chain from hook and each across -91dc 44cm long

Change to contrasting colour 1 (for me that was pink)

2: Ch3, turn, starting cluster in the same stitch, ch3, skip 6 stitches, *(cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next stitch, ch3, skip 6 stitches*, repeat across, cluster in the last stitch.

Change to main colour

3: Ch1, turn, sc in the same stitch, ch2, * { working the stitch in front of the chains}, dc into the 3rd and 4th stitch from the group of 6 stitches you skipped over on the previous row, ch2, sc into the ch2 space between the clusters, ch2*, repeat across, your last sc will be in the ch3 from the previous round.

4: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch and chain across.

Change to contrasting colour 2 (for me that was grey)

5: Repeat row 2

Change to main colour.

6-7: Repeat rows 3-4

Change to contrasting colour 1 (pink)

8: Repeat row 2

Change to main colour.

9-10: Repeat rows 3-4 (92dc at the end of row 10)

11: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 4 stitches, dc2tg, *dc in the next 5 stitches, dc2tg*, repeat across, skip the last stitch (the ch3 from the previous row). -78dc

12: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 3 stitches, dc2tg, *dc in the next 4 stitches, dc2tg*, repeat across. -65dc

13: Ch2, turn, hdc in the next 2 stitches, hdc2tg, *hdc in the next 3 stitches, hdc2tg*, repeat across. -52hdc

14-16: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across. -52dc

Change to contrasting colour 1.

17: Ch2, turn, hdc in each stitch across.

Change to contrasting colour 2.

18: Ch2, turn, hdc in each stitch across.

Change to contrasting colour 1.

19: Ch2, turn, hdc in each stitch across. - 52dc (19cm in height by this point)

Change to main colour

20: Ch2, turn, hdc in each stitch across.

Shaping the top

21: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 9 stitches. Leave the rest unworked. -10dc

22: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across. -10dc

23: Ch2, turn, hdc2tg, hdc2tg, hdc in the next 5 stitches. - 8hdc

24: Ch1, turn, sc in the next 4 stitches, slst in the next stitch.

25: Turn without chaining, skip the slst, sc in the next 5 stitches. -5sc

26-28: Ch1, turn, sc in the next 4 stitches. -5sc

End off yarn and weave in ends.

With wrong side facing up join your yarn to the 1st unworked stitch on row 21 (see pic below)



29-36: Repeat rows 21-28

Mark off the 8th stitch in from each front side section on the 21st row (see pic below) this will be the back of your dress.



37: Join your yarn to the 8th stitch (the one you marked) on the RIGHT side and ch3, dc in each of the next 17 stitches (this will take you to the next mark) - 18dc

38: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across. -18dc

39: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 5 stitches, sc in the next 6 stitches, dc in the next 6 stitches. - 18 stitches

40: Ch3, turn, dc2tg, dc in the next 3 stitches, sc in the next 6 stitches, dc in the next 3 stitches, dc2tg, dc in the last stitch. - 16 stitches

41: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 4 stitches -5dc

42-43: Repeat row 41. End off and weave in tails.

44:Rejoin your yarn to the outermost unworked stitch from row 40 and ch3, dc in the next 4 stitches. -5dc.

45-46: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 4 stitches, -5dc

,

End off and weave in all tails.

Fold the front of the dress closed. Line up the shoulder straps and sew them together.



With your main colour rejoin your yarn to the bottom left corner of the gown and hdc evenly up the side until you reach the first pink stripe, then sc up and around the neckline and back down until you reach the second pink stripe, then evenly hdc the rest of the way down to the corner.





The last row will depend entirely on where you want to place your buttons and what size they are. Mark off where your buttons will go (I popped stitch markers in the spaces) you will need to create loops when you are opposite to the button marker.



For the last row you can also choose to ch1, turn, and sc for the row, OR you can do a reverse sc, also known as a crab stitch. I did the crab stitch, as I wanted the edge to be more decorative. If you are unfamiliar with this stitch, you can see how it's done here: Crab Stitch Video

Evenly crab stitch or sc up the side of the gown, around the neckline and back down the other side. When your next stitch will be opposite a button marker ch4 (or however many you need to create a loop big enough for your button) and then continue on sc/crab stitching around.

When you reach the corner of your gown where we joined the main colour, do 2 hdc into the corner stitch, and then continue with either sc or crab stitch along the hem of the gown. Join to the ch1 from the start of this row to complete the edging.

Rejoin your main colour to any stitch on the armholes and either ch1 and sc evenly around the opening, joining to the ch1 to end, or crab stitch around the opening. Do both armholes. End off and weave in tails.

Attach buttons and your done!



Thursday, January 19, 2017

Short Overalls for Newborns



Good afternoon lovelies!

Wow it's been a busy few weeks. We just got back from our first family vacation in 2 years! Woah! So much fun though, but not a lot of time for crochet, so I'm sorry we missed a week there.

Today's pattern is something that's been on my todo list for a long time, and has been requested a few times over the years. Short overalls! Oh my word, these are just all sorts of adorable! They would be great as everyday wear, but also fantastic as a photography prop!

The doll I use wears a cloth diaper too, so you know it'll fit over babies butt!

It's simple enough to make, but it does use the best part of a ball of Red Heart Super Saver, so make sure you have enough on hand. They have ribbing around the back of the waist and the legs to help with fit.



Short Overalls

Sized To Fit:
Newborn

You Will Need:
5mm hook
Worsted Weight Yarn. I used Red Heart Super Saver in Blue Tones
2 Buttons

1: Ch17, dc in the 3rd ch from hook and each across. -15dc 2cm wide. 11cm long

Count the starting chain as a stitch from here

2-4: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across. - 15dc, 6cm wide, 11cm long

5: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across, ch40, careful not to twist, join to the top of the ch3. - 55 stitches

6:  Ch3, dc in the first 15 stitches, dc in the next 40 chains, join to the top of the ch3. 55dc

7: Ch3, dc in the first 15 stitches, *fpdc around the next stitch, bpdc around the next stitch*, repeat around, join to the top of the ch3.

8: Repeat round 7.

9-16: Ch3, dc in each stitch around, join to the top of the ch3. - 55dc, 23.5cm from row 1-16. 15.5cm from row 6-16. 24cm across at the widest point.

17: Ch3, dc in the next 10 stitches, skip the next skip the next 29 stitches, dc in the last 15 stitches, join to the top of the ch3. First leg started. - 26dc

18: Ch3, dc in each stitch around, join to the top of the ch3. - 26dc

19: Ch3, *fpdc around the next stitch, bpdc around the next stitch*, repeat around, join to the top of the ch3.

20: Ch1, *fpsc around the next stitch, bpsc around the next stitch*, repeat around, join to the ch1. End off, First leg complete. -26 stitches, 6cm from rounds 17-20, leg is 10cm wide.

21: With the front facing up, rejoin your yarn (with a long tail to sew closed gap) to the second unworked stitch (see photo below) and chain 3, dc in the next 25 stitches, join to the top of the ch3. - 26dc



22-24: Repeat rounds 18-20 to complete the second leg. Sew the gap closed.

To make the straps:

1: Mark off the centre 9 stitches at the back of the overalls (see photo below) and join your yarn to the first one (to the right) Ch3, dc into the next 8 stitches. - 9 dc (counting the starting chain)



2-5: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across. - 9dc

6: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 3 stitches. Leave the rest unworked. - 4dc

7-17: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across. - 4dc

End off at the end of row 17 and rejoin the yarn to the outermost unworked stitch of row 6.

Repeat rows 6-17 for the second strap.

End off, weave in all tails.



Where you place the buttons comes down to your own personal preference. The dc spaces are large enough to work as button holes. I prefer to place my buttons on the strap and have it sitting behind the bib, but you may like to sew your buttons onto the bib and have the strap on the front. Either way is fine.

To finish off your overalls and add some neatness to the edges, join your yarn to any stitch on the top of the bib, and ch1, sc around the entire bib, the side of the overalls, evenly around both straps, across the second side of the overalls and back to where you started on the bib.Weave in all tails and you're done!