Sunday, February 7, 2016

Delicate Princess Newborn Dress




Hello all, and welcome to the first pattern for 2016! I really had hoped to get this up at the start of January, but like usual, life  had other ideas. None the less, it is finally finished and I'm so happy with how it came out. 


 I've been wanting to make a newborn sized thread gown ever since I finished the Wendy Gown, but didn't have the right supplies. I'm glad I finally got around to it because I LOVE this dress. It is so sweet and delicate, from its thread to its dainty picots to its soft ribbon bow. It would be a fantastic coming home outfit for a little girl, and also wonderful for photographs.




The pattern itself isn't a hard one to follow, in fact I'm confident that people who are relatively new to crocheting should be able to follow along just fine. It gets a little fiddly, but it is so beautiful that it's worth the effort.

Now, I couldn't just stop at the dress, oh no. So I have in the works some matching pieces to go with it, which will be released over the next month or so, so keep an eye out for them too!


Size:
Full term newborn (6-9lb)
You Will Need:
Thread. I used Sullivans International Natural Soft Crochet and Knitting Thread. It says on the packet 4ply equivalent, so you could also use a 4ply yarn. You will need 2 balls. 
3mm Hook
Tulle
3 Buttons
Ribbon (about a meter)

Special Stitches:
trc = Triple Crochet Learn how to do it here.

Chains counts as a stitch, the last stitch of each row should be made into the top of the ch's from the previous row.

1. Chain 60, dc in the 3rd chain from hook, *2dc in the next chain, dc in the next chain*, repeat across – 87 

2. Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across – 87 

3. Ch3, turn, *dc in the next 3 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch*, repeat across – 106 

4. Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across – 106 

5. Repeat round 4


                                        


6. Ch3, turn, dc in the first 13 atitches, skip 28 stitches, ch2, dc in the next 23 stitches, ch2, skip 28 stitches, dc in the last 14 stitches – 55 including chains 

7. Ch3, turn, dc in the same stitch, 2dc in each stitch and chain across – 110 

8-9. ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across.

10. ch4 (counts as dc and ch1), *dc in the next 2 stitches, ch1* repeat across, skip the last stitch and dc in the ch3. 

11-14. ch5 (counts as dc and ch2), turn, *dc in the next 2 dc’s, ch2*, repeat across, dc in the last stitch. 

15-22. ch6 (counts as dc and ch3), turn, dc in the next 2 dc’s, ch3*, repeat across, dc in the last stitch. 

23-25. ch7 (counts as dc and ch4), turn, *dc in the next 2 dc’s, ch4*, repeat across, dc in the last stitch.

26. ch8 (counts as trc and ch4), *trc in the next 2 dc's, ch4*, repeat across, trc in the last stitch.

27. ch1, turn, *in the next ch4 gap (sc 3 times, picot, sc 3 times), sc in the next 2 trc's* repeat across. sc in the last stitch.

Do not end off. Sc evenly up the side of the back opening. End off. Attach yarn to the bottom of the other side of the back opening and sc up that evenly too. 

Sleeves.

1. Join yarn to any stitch (I aim for a spot under the arm to hide the join) and sc evenly around the entire arm hole 38 times, join.

2-4. ch2, hdc in each stitch around, join.

5. ch1, sc in the first 5 stitches, sc2tg, sc in the next 8 stitches, sc2tg, sc in the next 5 stitches, sc2tg, sc in the next 8 stitches, sc2tg, sc in the last 4 stitches, join. - 34

6. ch1, sc in each stitch around, join.

7. ch1, *sc in the next 4 stitches, sc2tg*, repeat around, join.

8. ch1, sc in each stitch around, join.

End off, weave in tails. Repeat rounds 1-8 for the second sleeve

Making the underskirt,

Chain 115, hdc in the second chain from hook and each across. End off leaving a very long tail, to sew the underskirt to the dress.  


                                     


Cut your tulle. I purchase mine in rolls that are 15cm wide. I cut my lengths to 50cm, and then trimmed once attached. I needed 36 strips of tulle for the skirt. This created a very full skirt. You could use less if you wanted less floof. 

I attached the tulle to every 3rd stitch. To do this, fold the tulle strip in half, pull the loop through a stitch, pass the ends of the strip through the loop and pull it tight.

Work slow doing this, if you pull too hard you will pull the stitches out of shape, This past is a bit fiddly.




   






Lay your dress flat, wrong side up. You will want to attach the underskirt to the bottom of row 9. When you are sewing the skirt to the dress, be sure to pick up the back stitches, instead of going right through your piece, you don't want the stitches showing on the right side. One side will be about an inch short, this is the side that will go over the buttons. Weave in all tails securely.





Attach your 3 buttons to the back of the dress.

For the bow, cut 2 lengths of ribbon. One will be threaded in and out of every group of 2 stitches on row 9. This piece ties at the rear. To make the bow at the front take the second piece of ribbon and tie it in a knot around the first piece of thread in the middle of the front of the gown. Tie a bow tightly, Cut the tails to the desired length.

That's it, your gown is done! I hope you have as much fun making this as I did. Don't forget to share your photos on the Ravelry Page.


Wednesday, September 30, 2015

The Halo Beanie



Good morning all and welcome to day 30, and the last hat pattern for the #ittybittygianthatdrive
Wow its been one whirlwind of a month! Hats, more hats, a house move and more hats! September sure has been crazy busy, and I love it! Chaos and all. It's now time to start gathering your hats together, print out the posting form from the website, weave in any tails (gah, this part lol) and get ready to post your hats on October 15th. The address you'll need is




Chance's Clothes Project
c/- Cowra Neighbourhood Centre
15 Vaux St
Cowra NSW 2794
Australia


Today's hat it the Halo Beanie. Named after a beautiful baby that started me on my journey of preemie pattern designs. When I first learnt to crochet, I knew I wanted to do something more with it, something meaningful. I was searching the internet and came across a group on Facebook called Project Halo, that made teeny beanies for teeny babies. This became my first stop on the road to where I am now. Project Halo eventually merged into what was Little Angels Memory Boxes, or simply, LAMB. A challenge was issued for people to design some patterns for micropreemies and I thought well.. why not! I took that first step into designing. I look back at my first hats now and cringe some, I knew I could do better. So I spent a lot of time practising, learning stitches and joining methods, playing with yarns and sizes and colours.


LAMB eventually closed down, after serving its purpose for some time, and from there I was lead to Chance's Clothes Project, whom I still to this day support, and the recipient of the Itty Bitty Giant Hat Drive's hats. With the encouragement and support of the members from CCP I branched out into clothing, cocoons and booties for preemies and have not looked back! I think by this stage its fair to say I now have the largest collection of free preemie crochet patterns, ranging from size 0-8 weeks to full term, anywhere on the net. That was the goal, and Im so proud to achieve it. I'd have never ever got to this point if it wasn't for Halo and mamma Laura starting me on this journey.

A huge thankyou to everyone who joined in with the hat drive. It means so very much not only to myself, but to countless families across Australia, and indeed the globe, who's hearts are breaking. Thankyou for being the change.

The Halo Beanie

Sized To Fit:
32 Weeks Gestation

Measurements:
8cm diameter after round 4.
11cm in height
14cm in width across the brim

You Will Need:
DK/8ply/Light Worsted weight yarn in a main and contrasting colour. Im using Moda Vera Marvel
4mm hook

Key = A - Sage Green
           B - Light Green
           C - Teal

Special Stitches: trc - Triple Crochet

With A
1. hdc 10 times in a magic ring, join. (10)

2. ch2, hdc in the same stitch, 2hdc in each remaining stitch around, join. (20)

3. ch2, hdc in the same stitch, *hdc in the next stitch, 2hdc in the next stitch*, repeat around, join. (30)

4. ch2, hdc in the same stitch, *hdc in the next 2 stitches, 2hdc in the next stitch*, repeat around, join. (40)

5-7. ch2, hdc in each stitch around, join.

8. ch1, dc in the next stitch, trc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch, sc in the next stitch, *sc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch, trc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch, sc in the next stitch*, repeat around, join.

9. With B, ch3, hdc in the next stitch, sc in the next stitch, hdc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch, *dc in the next stitch, hdc in the next stitch, sc in the next stitch, hdc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch*, repeat around, join.

10. ch4, dc in the next stitch, sc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch, trc in the next stitch, *trc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch, sc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch, trc in the next stitch*, repeat around, join.

11. With A, ch1, hdc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch, hdc in the next stitch, sc in the next stitch, *sc in the next stitch, hdc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch, hdc in the next stitch, sc in the next stitch*, repeat around, join.

12. ch2, hdc in each stitch around. End off, weave in tails.

With C
Surface crochet on the edges of the light green. This tutorial HERE explains surface crochet better then I can, so jump on over and have a read. Follow the light green wave with your surface stitches on both top and bottom. End off, weave in all tails.

Add your photos to the Ravelry page HERE