Monday, June 19, 2017

Sweet Robin




If loss stories are too hard for you, please scroll to the bottom of the page for the pattern <3


I didn't think I'd be sitting here, again. Writing these words, again. Feeling so much heartbreak, again.

I wrote back in 2013, about how when we loose a baby, we join a club that noone ever wants to be a part of, but we don't ever get to leave. The Baby Loss Club. It's exclusive, but oh so painful. We're here and yet, we don't want to be. We'd give every ounce of our beings to trade that card in, hand it back, cash in our membership and walk away. We desperately wish we never joined this club.

Sadly, we can't. It's a lifetime gig. Now, I find myself a part of the frequent flyer section, of this horrible club. We lost another precious angel this weekend. We'd been trying to grow our family since we lost Alice this past December, and finally thought our luck was changing. Boy was I wrong. Friday was probably the unluckiest days in my life.

It's a long story. Its traumatic and horrible and cruel. I'm not ready to write it all out yet. Between broken machines and hospital stuff ups, I had one of the most horrible days on Friday that I have ever had. If it wasn't for the support of my best friend and my partner, I don't quite know how I would have made it through.

Having to call my partner and tell him that our baby, who should have been 12 weeks along, had stopped growing at just 9 and had no heartbeat, was right up there on the list of hardest things I've ever had to do.

Coming home to tell my girls, so hard. The words didn't want to come out. They didn't want to form. They have questions that I have no answers to, and probably never will. As a family, our hearts are broken. We've cried so many tears. We are devastated.

Surely you'd think that was enough for one day. Surely the universe can't throw anything else at someone who is already so down? You'd think so, but no. My partner drove my friend back to the hospital that evening to pick her car up (she'd driven me home in ours, I was in no condition to drive) and on the way there our car got ran into. Thankfully everyone was ok, but my poor car will need extensive repairs and will be out of action for a while.

When it rains, it pours, isn't that how the saying goes? Well it sure poured, because to top the day off, both me and Master J ended up with headcolds as well. Just what we needed!

It's been a crappy weekend to follow a shitty Friday. I'm left feeling horrible and broken and angry. I have so much angry to work through right now that I can't even start on working through all the other feelings I have.

Beautiful little Robin. Gone too soon. Joining Frankie and Alice.
I am 1 in 4
I am broken.






Sweet Robin

You Will Need
3.5mm hook
2.00mm hook
Yarn in a main and contrasting colours for body and black for the beak.
Fabric paint/plastic eyes/beads
Small amount of stuffing

BODY
With 3.5mm hook and main colour

1: 6sc into a magic ring, place marker - 6sc
2: *sc in the next stitch, 2sc in the next stitch*, repeat around - 9sc
3: *sc in the next 2 stitches, 2sc in the next stitch*, repeat around - 12sc
4: *sc in the next 3 stitches, 2sc in the next stitch*, repeat around - 15sc
5: sc in teach stitch around - 15sc
6: *sc in the next 4 stitches, 2sc in the next stitch*, repeat around - 18sc
7-8: sc in each stitch around - 18sc
9: sc2tg 9 times - 9sc
Stuff well
10: sc in the next stitch, sc2tg 4 times - 5sc

End off leaving a long tail, use the tail to close the remaining hole by gathering it shut.

CHEST
With contrasting colour and 3.5mm hook

1: ch5, sc in the 2nd chain from hook and each across - 4sc
2-3: ch1, turn, sc across - 4sc
4: ch1, turn, 2sc in the first stitch, 2hdc in each of the next 2 stitches, 2sc in the last stitch -8 stitches

End off. Row 4 goes to the bottom of the bird. Stitch it onto the front of the body.

TAIL
With main colour and 3.5mm hook

1: ch3, sc in the 2nd chain from hook and the next stitch -2sc
2-3: ch1, turn, sc in each stitch - 2sc
4: ch1, sc 3 times down the side of the tail, 2sc in each of the ch2 spaces from row 1 we used to start the tail, sc evenly 3 times up the next side, 2sc in each of the 2 top stitches, join to the ch1. End off leaving a long tail to attach to the body of the bird.

Wings x2
With main colour and 3.5mm hook

Into a magic ring, sc 4 times, trc 2 times, sc 4 times, pull tight and join to the first sc. End off leaving a long tail for sewing to the side of the body.

Repeat to make second wing.

BEAK
With black and a 2.00mm hook

Attach black yarn with a slst to the place on the face that you want the beak to be, chain 3 and then end off with a long tail. Using the tail stitch back through the same place you joined the yarn, so that the ch3 folds in on itself to create the beak. Secure both ends and weave in.

Use fabric paint or stitch on eyes, or use beads.



Sunday, March 12, 2017

Violet Gown

 
Good evening beautiful people!

Wow talk about drama trying to get this pattern up! The card reader in my PC decided it would be a great time to not read cards! I had to get Mr Mamma to open it up and sort it out for me. Thankfully, so far so good. Fingers crossed we have no further issues. I guess when you use a computer daily it's bound to have some issues eventually, especially after 2 years!

So without further ado, here is the Violet gown! Lovely ripples paired with picots make this dress an absolute stunner. I love that it is soft and delicate but also packs a little more UMPH in the visuals. It's a very quick dress too with easy repetitions. Sized as it it'll fir 26-28 Weeks gestation and is fully open at the back. I hope you love making this one as much as I did!



Violet Gown

Supplies:
3.5mm hook
4ply Fingering weight yarn
Buttons for closure (2-3)

Special Stitches:
Picot: ch3, slst into the 3rd chain from hook.

Sized To Fit:
26-28 Weeks Gestation.

Start with main colour.

1: Ch36, dc in the 3rd chain from hook and each across. - 34dc

2: Ch3, turn, 2dc in the next stitch, *dc in the next stitch, 2dc in the next stitch*, repeat across. -51dc

3: ch3, turn, dc in the next stitch, 2dc in the next stitch, *dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch*, repeat across. -68dc

4: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 11 stitches, skip the next 14 stitches, ch4, dc in the next 16 stitches, ch4, skip the next 14 stitches, dc in the last 12 stitches. -40dc, 8ch

Change to contrasting colour.

5: Ch1, turn, sc in each stitch and chain across. -48sc

6: Ch1, turn, 2sc in the next stitch, *sc in the next stitch, 2sc in the next stitch*, repeat across. -72sc

Change to main colour.

7: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 4 stitches, skip the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 4 stitches, *ch2, dc in the next 4 stitches, skip the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 4 stitches*, repeat across until there are 7 stitches left, skip the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the last stitch.

8: Ch3, turn, dc in the next stitch, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches, skip the next 2 stitches, *dc in the next 4 stitches, ch2, dc in the next 4 stitches, skip 2*, repeat across until there are 4 stitches left, dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the last stitch.

9: Ch3, turn, dc in the next stitch, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch, *skip the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 4 stitches, ch2, dc in the next 4 stitches*, repeat across until there are 7 stitches left, skip the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the last 2 stitches.

10-11: Repeat rows 8-9

12: Ch3, turn, dc in the next stitch, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches, *skip the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 3 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, ch2, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 3 stitches*, repeat across until there are 6 stitches left, skip the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the last stitch.

13: Ch3, turn, dc in the next stitch 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch, *skip the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 5 stitches, ch2, dc in the next 5 stitches*, repeat across until there are 7 stitches left, skip the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the last 2 stitches.

14: Ch3, turn, dc in the next stitch, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches, *skip the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 5 stitches, ch2, dc in the next 5 stitches* repeat across until there are 6 stitches left, skip the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the last stitch.

15-18: Repeat rows 13-14 twice.

Change to contrasting colour.

19: Complete this row crocheting in the back loops only of the stitches. Ch2, turn,*hdc in the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 4 stitches, hdc in the next 2 stitches, sc in the next stitch, sc in the ch2 gap, sc in the next stitch* repeat across, sc in the last 2 stitches.

20: ch2, turn, hdc in each stitch across,

21: ch1, turn, sc in the next stitch, *picot, sc in the next 2 stitches*, repeat across, sc in the last stitch. End off, weave in ends.

Sleeves:
1: With main colour, join yarn to any unworked stitch on the sleeve, ch2, hdc evenly around the arm hole for 26 stitches, join to the first hdc.

2: Ch2, hdc in each stitch around, join to the first hdc.

Change to contrasting colour

3: Ch1, *sc in the next 2 stitches, picot*, repeat around, join to the first sc.

End off and weave in all tails.

Attach buttons to the back of the dress, or ties if that's what you like.





Tuesday, February 14, 2017

Milada Gown



Good morning beautiful people!
Recently on my Facebook page I popped up a post asking if anyone had any requests and one that came in was from June who suggested something with hearts for Valentines day. Such a lovely request and one that immediately sparked some ideas! This is the first that I've finished, and just in time for Valentines too!

This sweet little gown is fully front opening and features a clever little heart stitch, which is made up using clusters! I hope you love it as much as I do.



Milada Gown

Sized To Fit: 
26-28 weeks (2-2.5lbs)

You Will Need:
DK weight yarn in a main colour, and 2 small amounts of contrasting colours.
3mm hook
Desired amount of buttons.

Special Stitches:

Starting cluster: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 on hook), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.

Cluster: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 on hook), yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (4 on hook) yarn over and pull through all 4 loops.

1: Ch93, dc into the 3rd chain from hook and each across -91dc 44cm long

Change to contrasting colour 1 (for me that was pink)

2: Ch3, turn, starting cluster in the same stitch, ch3, skip 6 stitches, *(cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next stitch, ch3, skip 6 stitches*, repeat across, cluster in the last stitch.

Change to main colour

3: Ch1, turn, sc in the same stitch, ch2, * { working the stitch in front of the chains}, dc into the 3rd and 4th stitch from the group of 6 stitches you skipped over on the previous row, ch2, sc into the ch2 space between the clusters, ch2*, repeat across, your last sc will be in the ch3 from the previous round.

4: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch and chain across.

Change to contrasting colour 2 (for me that was grey)

5: Repeat row 2

Change to main colour.

6-7: Repeat rows 3-4

Change to contrasting colour 1 (pink)

8: Repeat row 2

Change to main colour.

9-10: Repeat rows 3-4 (92dc at the end of row 10)

11: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 4 stitches, dc2tg, *dc in the next 5 stitches, dc2tg*, repeat across, skip the last stitch (the ch3 from the previous row). -78dc

12: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 3 stitches, dc2tg, *dc in the next 4 stitches, dc2tg*, repeat across. -65dc

13: Ch2, turn, hdc in the next 2 stitches, hdc2tg, *hdc in the next 3 stitches, hdc2tg*, repeat across. -52hdc

14-16: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across. -52dc

Change to contrasting colour 1.

17: Ch2, turn, hdc in each stitch across.

Change to contrasting colour 2.

18: Ch2, turn, hdc in each stitch across.

Change to contrasting colour 1.

19: Ch2, turn, hdc in each stitch across. - 52dc (19cm in height by this point)

Change to main colour

20: Ch2, turn, hdc in each stitch across.

Shaping the top

21: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 9 stitches. Leave the rest unworked. -10dc

22: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across. -10dc

23: Ch2, turn, hdc2tg, hdc2tg, hdc in the next 5 stitches. - 8hdc

24: Ch1, turn, sc in the next 4 stitches, slst in the next stitch.

25: Turn without chaining, skip the slst, sc in the next 5 stitches. -5sc

26-28: Ch1, turn, sc in the next 4 stitches. -5sc

End off yarn and weave in ends.

With wrong side facing up join your yarn to the 1st unworked stitch on row 21 (see pic below)



29-36: Repeat rows 21-28

Mark off the 8th stitch in from each front side section on the 21st row (see pic below) this will be the back of your dress.



37: Join your yarn to the 8th stitch (the one you marked) on the RIGHT side and ch3, dc in each of the next 17 stitches (this will take you to the next mark) - 18dc

38: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across. -18dc

39: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 5 stitches, sc in the next 6 stitches, dc in the next 6 stitches. - 18 stitches

40: Ch3, turn, dc2tg, dc in the next 3 stitches, sc in the next 6 stitches, dc in the next 3 stitches, dc2tg, dc in the last stitch. - 16 stitches

41: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 4 stitches -5dc

42-43: Repeat row 41. End off and weave in tails.

44:Rejoin your yarn to the outermost unworked stitch from row 40 and ch3, dc in the next 4 stitches. -5dc.

45-46: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 4 stitches, -5dc

,

End off and weave in all tails.

Fold the front of the dress closed. Line up the shoulder straps and sew them together.



With your main colour rejoin your yarn to the bottom left corner of the gown and hdc evenly up the side until you reach the first pink stripe, then sc up and around the neckline and back down until you reach the second pink stripe, then evenly hdc the rest of the way down to the corner.





The last row will depend entirely on where you want to place your buttons and what size they are. Mark off where your buttons will go (I popped stitch markers in the spaces) you will need to create loops when you are opposite to the button marker.



For the last row you can also choose to ch1, turn, and sc for the row, OR you can do a reverse sc, also known as a crab stitch. I did the crab stitch, as I wanted the edge to be more decorative. If you are unfamiliar with this stitch, you can see how it's done here: Crab Stitch Video

Evenly crab stitch or sc up the side of the gown, around the neckline and back down the other side. When your next stitch will be opposite a button marker ch4 (or however many you need to create a loop big enough for your button) and then continue on sc/crab stitching around.

When you reach the corner of your gown where we joined the main colour, do 2 hdc into the corner stitch, and then continue with either sc or crab stitch along the hem of the gown. Join to the ch1 from the start of this row to complete the edging.

Rejoin your main colour to any stitch on the armholes and either ch1 and sc evenly around the opening, joining to the ch1 to end, or crab stitch around the opening. Do both armholes. End off and weave in tails.

Attach buttons and your done!



Thursday, January 19, 2017

Short Overalls for Newborns



Good afternoon lovelies!

Wow it's been a busy few weeks. We just got back from our first family vacation in 2 years! Woah! So much fun though, but not a lot of time for crochet, so I'm sorry we missed a week there.

Today's pattern is something that's been on my todo list for a long time, and has been requested a few times over the years. Short overalls! Oh my word, these are just all sorts of adorable! They would be great as everyday wear, but also fantastic as a photography prop!

The doll I use wears a cloth diaper too, so you know it'll fit over babies butt!

It's simple enough to make, but it does use the best part of a ball of Red Heart Super Saver, so make sure you have enough on hand. They have ribbing around the back of the waist and the legs to help with fit.



Short Overalls

Sized To Fit:
Newborn

You Will Need:
5mm hook
Worsted Weight Yarn. I used Red Heart Super Saver in Blue Tones
2 Buttons

1: Ch17, dc in the 3rd ch from hook and each across. -15dc 2cm wide. 11cm long

Count the starting chain as a stitch from here

2-4: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across. - 15dc, 6cm wide, 11cm long

5: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across, ch40, careful not to twist, join to the top of the ch3. - 55 stitches

6:  Ch3, dc in the first 15 stitches, dc in the next 40 chains, join to the top of the ch3. 55dc

7: Ch3, dc in the first 15 stitches, *fpdc around the next stitch, bpdc around the next stitch*, repeat around, join to the top of the ch3.

8: Repeat round 7.

9-16: Ch3, dc in each stitch around, join to the top of the ch3. - 55dc, 23.5cm from row 1-16. 15.5cm from row 6-16. 24cm across at the widest point.

17: Ch3, dc in the next 10 stitches, skip the next skip the next 29 stitches, dc in the last 15 stitches, join to the top of the ch3. First leg started. - 26dc

18: Ch3, dc in each stitch around, join to the top of the ch3. - 26dc

19: Ch3, *fpdc around the next stitch, bpdc around the next stitch*, repeat around, join to the top of the ch3.

20: Ch1, *fpsc around the next stitch, bpsc around the next stitch*, repeat around, join to the ch1. End off, First leg complete. -26 stitches, 6cm from rounds 17-20, leg is 10cm wide.

21: With the front facing up, rejoin your yarn (with a long tail to sew closed gap) to the second unworked stitch (see photo below) and chain 3, dc in the next 25 stitches, join to the top of the ch3. - 26dc



22-24: Repeat rounds 18-20 to complete the second leg. Sew the gap closed.

To make the straps:

1: Mark off the centre 9 stitches at the back of the overalls (see photo below) and join your yarn to the first one (to the right) Ch3, dc into the next 8 stitches. - 9 dc (counting the starting chain)



2-5: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across. - 9dc

6: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 3 stitches. Leave the rest unworked. - 4dc

7-17: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across. - 4dc

End off at the end of row 17 and rejoin the yarn to the outermost unworked stitch of row 6.

Repeat rows 6-17 for the second strap.

End off, weave in all tails.



Where you place the buttons comes down to your own personal preference. The dc spaces are large enough to work as button holes. I prefer to place my buttons on the strap and have it sitting behind the bib, but you may like to sew your buttons onto the bib and have the strap on the front. Either way is fine.

To finish off your overalls and add some neatness to the edges, join your yarn to any stitch on the top of the bib, and ch1, sc around the entire bib, the side of the overalls, evenly around both straps, across the second side of the overalls and back to where you started on the bib.Weave in all tails and you're done!



Thursday, January 5, 2017

Tulip Cocoon



Good morning beautiful people.

Well, here it is, the first pattern for 2017! I'm hoping for big things this year here on the blog, so lets see if we can pull them off! This year will be a mixed bag, as far as the blog goes. Preemie items like usual, but I want to throw in some more variety. Newborn items, props, DIY's, more dolls clothing, more recipe reviews, more of everything, and why not! I love to share these kinds of things with you all, and Im sure this year, like the last, will be full of fantastic posts and projects!! Preemie pattern wise, I want to try an focus on the smaller sizes, that often gets overlooked.

Today's pattern was designed after reading a post at Project Robby asking for cocoon patterns. Now I know I have a couple, and they get used so very much, but there could always be more. This is the first, and I'll have a new one every month this year. Lots of sizes and styles for wee babies. I'm not sure if you guys remember, but 2 years ago I made a hat for the hat drive using the flower pattern, and I said then I wanted to rework it into a cocoon, and Im so glad I did, it worked so well! You could use matching flower colours, different shades like I have here, or 2 completely different colours. I'm sure all options would work well.



Sized To Fit:
16/17 Weeks Gestation

You Will Need:
4mm hook.
DK/8ply yarn in a main colour (white) and a small amount of green and pinks for the flowers.
2 buttons for closing. (you could also use ribbon, or lengths of chained yarn for ties)

Tulip Cocoon

Special Stitches: DC3TG CLUSTER: yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through two, yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through two, (3 loops left on hook), yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through two, (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all loops.

1: Into a magic ring, ch2, dc 9 times, join to the first dc. - 9dc 3cm across

2: Ch3, 2dc in the same stitch, 2dc in each stitch around, join to the first dc. -18dc 5.5cm across

3: Ch3, dc in the same stitch, 2dc in the next stitch, *dc in the next stitch, 2dc in the next stitch*, repeat from * to * around, join to the first dc. -27dc 7.5cm

4: Ch3, dc in the same stitch, dc in the next stitch, 2dc in the next stitch, *dc in the next 2 stitchs, 2dc in the next stitch*, repeat from * to * around, join to the first dc. - 36dc 10cm across

5: Ch3, dc in the same stitch, dc in the next 2 stitchs, 2dc in the next stitch, *dc in the next 3 stitchs, 2dc in the next stitch*, repeat from * to * around, join to the first dc. - 45dc 12cm across

6. ch3, dc in the same stitch, dc in each stitch around, do not join. - 45dc

Change to green yarn

7: Ch3, turn, skip 2 stitches, *(dc, ch1, dc) in the next stitch, skip 2 stitches*, repeat across, dc in the last stitch.

Change to pink yarn

8: Ch5 (counts as first dc and ch2), turn, *DC3TG cluster in the next ch1 space, ch2*, repeat across, dc into the ch3 from the previous round.

Change to white yarn

9: Ch2, turn, hdc in each stitch and chain across, the last stitch will be in the 3rd chain from the previous row. - 45hdc

10: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across. - 45dc

11-14: Repeat rows 7 to 10

15: ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across.

16: Ch1, turn, sc in each stitch across, 2sc in the last stitch, then sc evenly down the side of the opening, until you reach the bottom, sc once in the space between both sides and then sc evenly back up the other side of the opening, joining to the first sc. End off and weave in all tails. Completed size 13.5cm across the top, 18cm in length.

Attach buttons. I used the spaces in the dc's for "buttonholes" you could always use the gaps in the green or pink also.