Amber Pineapple Dress

Good morning everyone!

Hope you are all doing well. Lots of happenings here in mamma land! Lots of crocheting and designing and planning to bring you more patterns! We also started a testers group on Facebook. Of course there are some rules (must use correct hook/yarn weight/size, no sharing patterns before release, need to add project pics to Ravelry ect) but if this sounds like something you'd like to be involved in (and I mean actively please), please email me at myshellecole@gmail.com

Now onto today's beautiful dress! Pineapples! I am sure most crocheters at one point or another tackle these, for me it was when making a thread umbrella, and I have to say I just love how decorative they are! This pattern is probably not a great one for beginners, but certainly confident ones could tackle it (and if you are a beginner, I really do suggest printing it out, and then highlighting the stitches as you go, that way you wont loose count). It will fit a bub of 24 weeks gestation. Don't forget to add your images to Ravelry. It absolutely makes my day when I see all the wonderful pieces everyone has created.

You Will Need:
3.5mm hook
5.5mm hook
dk weight yarn
2-3 small buttons for closing.

Starting with a 3.5mm hook

1: ch24, dc in the 2nd st from hook, 2dc in the next st, *dc, 2dc in the next stitch*, repeat across (33)

2: ch2, turn, *dc in the 1st 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch*, repeat across (44) (last stitch worked in turning chain from previous row)

3: ch2, turn, *dc in the first 3 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch* repeat (55)

4: ch2, dc same and next 7, ch2, sk 12, dc 15, ch2, sk12, dc last 8 (35 including chains)

Swap to 5.5mm hook

5: ch1, turn, *sc in the first stitch, 2sc in the next stitch* repeat across (including in chains), sc in the turning chain. (52)

6: ch3, turn, dc in the first 5 stitches, *sk 1, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) into the next stitch, sk1, dc into the next* repeat from ** 9 more times, sk 1, dc in the last 6 stitches

7: ch3, turn, dc in the first 7 stitches, *ch1, sk1, (dc2, ch2, dc2) in the next ch2 gap, ch1, sk2,dc into the next dc* repeat 9 times, dc in the last 4

8: c3, turn, dc in the first 5 stitches, *ch2, sk2, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in the next ch2 gap, ch2, sk2, dc into the next dc, ch2, sk2, (2dc, ch3, 2dc) into the next ch2 gap, ch2, sk2, dc into the next dc* Repeat 4 times, dc in the last 6 stitches

9: ch3, turn, dc in the first 7 stitches, *ch1, sk2, dc 9 times in the next ch3 gap, ch1, sk2, dc in the next dc, ch1, sk2, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in the next ch2 gap, ch1, sk2, dc into the next dc* Repeat 4 times, dc in the last 4 stitches.

10: ch3, turn, dc in the first 5 stitches, *ch1, sk2, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in the next ch2 gap, ch1, sk2, dc in the next st, ch2, dc2tg, dc in the next 5 sts, dc2tg, ch2, dc in the next st* Repeat 4 times, dc in the last 6 stitches.

11: ch3, turn, dc in the first 7 stitches, *ch3, dc2tg, dc in the next 3 stitches, dc2tg, ch3, dc in the next st, ch1, sk2, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in the next ch2 gap, ch1, sk2, dc in the next st* Repeat 4 times, dc in the last 4 stitches.

12: ch3, turn, dc in the first 5 stitches, *ch2, sk2, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in the next ch2 gap, ch2, dc in the next ch1 gap, ch2, dc in the next ch3 space, ch2, dc2tg, dc, dc2tg, ch2, dc in the next ch3 gap, ch2, dc in the next ch1 gap* Repeat 3 times, ch2, sk2, (2dc, ch2, 2dc) in the next ch2 gap, ch2, dc in the next ch1 gap, ch2, dc in the next ch3 space, ch2, dc2tg, dc, dc2tg, ch2, dc in the next ch3 gap,ch2, dc in the last 7 stitches.

13: ch3, turn, dc in the first 7 stitches, *ch2, dc in first ch gap, ch2, dc in next ch gap, ch2, dc3tg, {ch2, dc in next ch gap, repeat x 4}* Repeat 4 times, ch2, dc in last 5 stitches.

14: ch3, turn, dc in the first 5 stitches, *ch2, dc in next ch gap* repeat across, ch2, dc in the last 7 stitches.

15: ch2, turn, hdc in each stitch and chain across.

16: ch1, turn, *sc, sc, ch3, sc into the 3rd ch from hook, repeat across, sc in the last stitch.

End off and weave in all loose tails.

Striped Kimono

Hello wonderful people!

Firstly, so very sorry that today's post is a bit late! Its been one of them weeks, trying to get all my software reinstalled and everything set up the way I like it! Happy to say it is all done and Ill be back to our regular program!

Today's pattern is for a little kimono styled gown or top depending on the length you want. It is designed to fit a premature baby of  20 weeks gestation but the closest doll I have at the moment is 18 weeks, which is why it looks a bit big on the doll. Hopefully in a few weeks time Ill have a 20 week doll as well. I hand stitch them so it'll be a time thing :)

Anyway here we go!

Striped Kimono

11.5cm wide, 15 cm long from neckline to hem.
20 Weeks gestation


Dk weight yarn in main and contrasting colours
4mm hook
2 small buttons (optional)
ch3 does not count in stitch count

R1: Ch34, dc in the 3rd chain from hook and the next 4 chains, (dc, ch2, dc) in the next chain, dc in the next 5 chains, (dc, ch2, dc) in the next chain, dc in the next 9 chains, (dc, ch2, dc) in the next chain, dc in the next 5 chains, (dc, ch2, dc) in the next chain, dc in the last 4 chains. (36 dc’s counting ch3)

R2: Ch3, turn, dc in the first 5 stitches, (dc, ch2, dc) in the ch2 gap, dc in the next 7 stitches, (dc, ch2, dc) in the next ch2 gap, dc in the next 11 stitches, (dc, ch2, dc) in the next ch2 gap, dc in the next 7 stitches, (dc, ch2, dc) in the next ch2 gap, dc in the last 6 stitches. (44 dc’s)

Change to contrasting colour

R3: Ch3, turn, dc in the first 7 stitches, (dc, ch2, dc) in the next ch2 gap, dc in the next 9 stitches, (dc, ch2, dc) in the next ch2 gap, dc in the next 13 stitches, (dc, ch2, dc) in the next ch2 gap, dc in the next 9 stitches, (dc, ch2, dc) in the next ch2 gap, dc in the last 6 stitches. (52 dc’s)

Change to main colour

R4: Ch3, turn, dc in the first 7 stitches, dc in the ch2 gap, ch2, skip the next lot of stitches and dc into the next ch2 gap, dc in the next 15 stitches, dc in the ch2 gap, ch2, skip the next lot of stitches and dc into the next ch2 gap, dc in the next 7 stitches, 2dc in the last stitch. (35)

R5: Ch3, turn, 2dc in the first stitch, dc in each stitch and chain across (40)

Change to contrasting colour

R6: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across until the last stitch, 2dc in the last stitch (41)

Change to main colour

R7: Ch3, turn, 2dc in the first stitch, dc in each remaining stitch across

R8: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across until the last stitch, 2dc in the last stitch

Change to contrasting colour

R9: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across

Change to main colour

R10-14: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across

End off. Attach either buttons or ties

Basic Arm Splint Tutorial + Free Pattern

Hello everyone!

So today I have something a little different for you. Its a sewing pattern/tutorial. GASP! You say, where fore is the crochet? Well if I could have crocheted these little beauties I probably would have alas, sewn works so much better!

The whats and whys and hows? Well, one of my closest friends has a grandson who was born with Bilateral Cleft Lip and Palate. This requires Master R to have a few various surgeries to repair both his lip and palate. After his operations, it was important that he not touch his face in case he hurt the area, dislodged stitches or spread germs and caused an infection. The easiest way to stop a child from touching their face, is to immobilise their arms.

Well, it turns out there wasn't a lot of options for purchasing them and the few available were pretty costly, so Master R's nan asked if it was possible to make some. That's right, I made some :D The first few were pretty scary looking, and much more complicated then need be so I kept working on them and am now happy with the final pattern.

Call me crazy, but something like this should already be a part of going in and getting the op's done, having to source and pay for a pair of childs arm splints on top of an already incredibly stressful (and expensive once you factor in travel distance, special bottles, accommodation ect!!) time just isn't right.
We've since been working on making sets to donate to the Royal Hobart Hospital, and hope to distribute more to any family that needs them.

Before I go too much further, Id like to link up a support group called CleftPALS Victoria (Aussie based group) there are many more out there, but this is the one my friend is in and so the one Id like to share :) If you'r in Tassie of Vic and have a cleft bub head on over :)

Now the size I have here will work from about 5-6 months up. I tried a pair on Miss M (below) who is now 8yrs and they not only fit, but she was unable to scratch her nose, Id call that a success. To make them smaller, just shrink the overall size a few cm's. They are not hard to do, just fiddly, especially sewing on all the velcro
tabs.

Let this be a prewarning, do NOT use sticky backed velcro! It clogs up your machine's needle. I totally learnt that the hard way!

Id also like to add that as far as sewing goes, I am totally self taught with the hit n miss method! If there is a neater/simpler/better way of doing this then by all means. This is just how I did it, in my have a crack way :)

Supplies: to make one PAIR (2 splints)

Inner material - Use something thick like fleece. It doesn't matter what colour this piece is, noone will see it. Cut 2 pieces of 25.5cm x 30cm
Outer Material - This is the part you will see. Pick bright fun fabrics, they appeal more to the little ones. I use flannelette and/or cotton. I prefer to use flannelette for the back piece, as this is the side touching a childs skin, its nice to make sure its soft and won't irritate.  Cut 4 pieces of 25.5cm x 19cm
Velcro Tabs - Fabric choice is less important here, just make sure its nothing too thin or the Velcro might tear it, even once sewn down. I go with cottons and flannelettes. Cut 4 pieces of 8cm x 25cm
Velcro - Cut 8 pieces (4 of each surface) at 10cm long.

Hard pieces for the inserts: The easiest thing to use for this is tongue depressors. They are super sturdy, can take a beating and are the perfect size. If you have none (and you will see in this tutorial we had none handy at the time) you can use a few other things. We have had great success with cutting the same shape/size from ice cream containers. A depressor is 2cm wide and 15cm long. If you cut your own from anything else remember you must curve the ends so they are not sharp!! Ice cream container pieces by themselves are good for small babies, but once they get mobile, double up on them! (place 2 in each slot)
I have also made a pair by taking 2 plastic knifes (99cent bbq cutlery) turning one upside down (top and tailing them) and sticky taping them together. The size is only slightly smaller then a depressor would be. Ive just been told that jumbo craft sticks are also 15x2cm. Whichever is the best option for you, just roll with it. Just make sure your chosen material is washable, as the idea of these is to be reusable.
You will need 6 depressors (or 12 ice cream container cut-outs) to make one set of splints.

 Sewing machine/cotton/pins and some patience too.

Starting with the inner piece.
Fold your 25.5x30cm piece in half. Lay 3 depressors on top and space them evenly. Use a pen or marker to draw down each side on the material to mark where the edges of the depressors are. My marks are a little hard to see so Ive added some pins to help show you.
Sew down each line from one side to the other. This creates little pockets for the depressors to sit in.
Push the depressors into their pockets (2 per if your using ice cream containers) and then sew across the top to encase them in. Make the second one the same way. Put these aside.

Velcro Tabs.
Take your 8x25cm piece of fabric for the tabs and fold in half, slightly creasing the centre fold. Unfold the piece again. Position the velcro on one side of the tab, about 1cm back from the centre crease. Sew the velcro on. I go around the outside of the velcro piece twice to make sure it stays put.
Fold the piece in half, right sides facing and sew down the long sides, leaving the end open for turning. Turn piece in the right way. Repeat for the last 3 tabs.

Velcro on the outer. 
Take one of the outer pieces of material. Position your velcro 3cm in, and 4cm up
(or down for the top piece) as shown. Sew around the velcro pieces to secure them in place. Repeat with a second outer piece.

Now its time to make a splint sandwich. This is a little complicated so lets take it step by step.

Take one of the outer pieces that has NO velcro on it and lay it right side UP.

Place your velcro tabs on the right hand side facing IN and with the velcro tab facing DOWN (use the outer with the velcro tabs to get a good position for them shown below)

Place the outer layer WITH the velcro on top, right side facing DOWN and the velcro tabs on the LEFT

Now place the inner layer with the sticks on the very top. You will see that its the same size in length but not in height. This is so it can be turned. It is very important when sewing the sandwich together that you do not catch the edge of the inner piece OR the velcro tabs in the needle.

Now starting on the top of the piece sew around, leaving at least a 15cm gap unsewn at the top. I usually reverse over the velcro tab section a few times just to make sure its all nice and secure.

Once you are done turn your splint in the right way. This can be a little tricky, especially if your inserts are depressors as they have very little bend. Once in the right way make sure to poke all the corners out. Now pin your gap closed and simply sew around the entire edge, this closes the gap and keeps everything nice and neat as well as reinforces the inner pieces and tabs into place.

Thats it, splints done! The hardest part of these is adding the velcro. Maybe its just me but it takes me a good 30 minutes just to attach all the little buggers! Still, the end result is totally worth it. Maybe you'd like to make some for your local hospital? Just give them a call and see if they need them. Ronald McDonald houses may also be happy to accept a stockpile for the families that stay there. Just please don't make money from this pattern. I know I can't police that, but its just not right to use someone's hardship like this to make a buck. 

And if you'd like to share pics of your little ones sporting a pair of these, by all means go for it, I'd love to see :D

Am Back!

With thanks to many many generous and amazing friends and family, I am now back up and running with a new pc. I can not thank them enough for helping me and without them I would still be running about trying to organise something. Thankyou! <3

This is all a little new to me, Ive been an XP gal for many years and Win8 is new and exciting but a little confusing. I'll take me a few days to get everything installed and set the way I prefer but there shouldn't be any gap in pattern releases. Im now in the process of typing up the 13 patterns I wrote while offline, so I guess the quiet time was good for something!

The other thing I want to talk about today is the fact that some typos have been popping up. Mostly this is because there are no testers besides myself looking at the patterns, and when your one person raising a family and running/working for multiple charities, well you tend to make typos. I'll be setting up a testers group (likely on FB or maybe Ravelry) of a few people so each pattern can be tested. It also means people will have some project photos to add which will give everyone a better idea of what the item looks like :D

Lastly, its been happening again, that is, people running off with my work and pasting the entire pattern (and the pics!) in other places. I know I have no way to police this, but please, if you want to share one of my patterns, link to the blog.
The advert clicks I receive here are the ONLY money I make on my patterns, and I want to keep them free for everyone, so sharing the links rather then pinching the entire texts is important (and its kinda illegal to pilfer someones work yo!)

Love ya's all, and happy crafting!

Jacks One Piece - Free Crochet Pattern

Hello lovlies!
Back with another boys pattern. I did say I would have more! This pattern makes a super cute all in one romper. Made as instructed, it will fit a bub born at around 34/36 weeks gestation, so its also great for prems that get to go home. It is also very easy to resize with a hook and yarn change.

You will need:
5mm hook
DK (8ply) weight yarn in main and contrasting colours


1: ch38, dc in the 3rd chain from hook and the next 5 chains, (dc, ch2, dc) in the next stitch, dc in the next 5 stitches, (dc, ch2, dc) in the next stitch, dc in the next 10 stitches, (dc, ch2, dc) in the next stitch, dc in the next 5 stitches, (dc, ch2, dc) in the next stitch, dc in the last 6 stitches.

2: ch3, turn, dc in the first 7 stitches, (dc, ch2, dc) in the ch2 space, dc in the next 7 stitches, (dc, ch2, dc) in the next ch2 space, dc in the next 12 stitches, (dc, ch2, dc) in the next ch2 space, dc in the next 7 stitches, (dc, ch2, dc) in the next ch2 space, dc in the last 7 stitches.

3: ch3, turn, dc in the first 8 stitches, (dc, ch2, dc) in the ch2 space, dc in the next 9 stitches, (dc, ch2, dc) in the next ch2 space, dc in the next 14 stitches, (dc, ch2, dc) in the next ch2 space, dc in the next 9 stitches, (dc ch2, dc) in the next ch2 space, dc in the last 8 stitches

4: ch3, turn, dc in the first 9 stitches, dc in the ch2 space, ch2, skip all dc's until the next ch2 space and then dc in that, dc in the next 16 stitches, dc in the ch2 space, ch2, skip the next lot of dc's and dc into the next ch2 space, dc in the remaining 9 dc's.

5: ch2, turn, hdc in the first 9 stitches, hdc in the ch2 space, hdc2tg twice, hdc in the next 10 stitches, hdc2tg twice, hdc in the ch2 space, hdc in the last 10 stitches.

End top colour, turn piece and join bottom colour.

6: sc in the back loops only for each stitch across

7: ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across

8: ch3, turn, *dc in the next 4 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch*, repeat 6 more times

9-10: ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across

At the end of row 10 join with a slip stitch to the first dc from that row, so the next section is worked in the round.

11: ch3, dc in each stitch around, join.

Forming the crotch:

12: slst in the first 6 stitches, ch3, TURN, dc back across the same 6 stitches, dc in the starting chain, dc in the next 6 stitches (13)

13: ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across

14: ch3, turn, dc2tg twice, dc in the next 5 stitches, dc2tg twice more (9)

15: ch2, turn, hdc2tg twice, hdc, hdc2tg twice more (5)

16-17: ch1, turn, sc across.

End off.

With the back of the piece facing you, count off (to the left) 11 unused stitches from round 11, join yarn in the 12th stitch.

18: ch3, dc in the same stitch, dc in the next 8 stitches

19: ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across (9)

20: ch3, turn, dc2tg, dc in the next 5 stitches, dc2tg (7)

21-22: ch1, turn, sc across

End off yarn and weave in ends.

Buttons to be attached to the crotch and the opening in the back of the suit.

OPTIONAL SLEEVES

1: Join yarn to any stitch on arm hole, dc3 and dc in each stitch around, join.
2: ch2, hdc in each stitch around, join.
End off and repeat with the other sleeve.

OPTIONAL BOW
1: ch8, sc in the 2nd chain from hook and each across (7)
2-4: ch1, turn, sc across
Do not end yarn, instead evenly sc around the entire rectangle, making 2sc's in each corner.

End off and weave in ends.

With a long piece of yarn, pinch bow together and wrap around, pulling tight to gather. Keep wrapping bow until centre is as wide/thick as you desire. Tie off and sew bow onto the front of the suit.

Pc Fried, Out of Action!

Oh darn it!

Unfortunately this week my pc of 8 years fried. Ive done some repairs/hand it looked at but it's still not working, and I'll be needing a new one. Until then, I wont be able to release any new patterns :(

I have set up a gofundme page, in the hopes that kind people might like to give me a hand, as Im running on empty lately and just don't have the money to replace my machine. It is entirely up to you. It would also mean a lot to me if you could all share the link via email, Facebook, Twitter, G+, Whatever social media site you use. I don't like to ask for help, and Im a proud and somewhat stubborn woman, but I simply can not continue to do patterns or any other charity stuff online without a computer and without a job and trying to raise 3 kids, well I don't need to tell you times are tough.

There are still some scrapkits scheduled and one more preemie item on the 14th, Thank to for Bloggers scheduling function! After that, well Im not entirely sure.

Anyway, here is the link. If you can help, I thank you from the very bottom of my heart, it means a great deal to me to beable to do what I do, and it would mean a great deal to me to have a bit of a hand <3

http://www.gofundme.com/6pupnk

Trina Gown - Free Crochet Pattern

Good Morning everyone,

Today's pattern is a little gown with a soft shell stitch ruffle on the skirt. Very simple to do but the end result looks great! 

This gown made as I did will fit 18-22 weeks gestation, however you can easily upsize it by using larger hooks and/or yarn. If you make this gown larger, add more repeats of rows 8 and 9 to increase the length.

You will need to know how to crochet in the back loop only, this is so we can use the unworked front loops for attaching the shell ruffles.

You will need: 

3.5mm hook

3-4ply (fingering/light fingering) yarn

2 small buttons

1: ch24, dc in the 2nd st from hook, 2dc in the next st, *dc, 2dc in the next stitch*, repeat across (33)
2: ch2, turn, *dc in the 1st 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch*, repeat across (44)
3: ch2, turn, *dc in the first 3 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch* repeat (55)
4: ch2, turn, dc same and next 7, ch2, sk 12, dc 15, ch2, sk12, dc last 8 (35 including chains)

5: ch2, turn, *dc in the first 4 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch* Repeat across

6: ch2, turn, dc in each stitch across

7: ch2, turn, *dc in the first 5 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch* Repeat across

8: ch3, turn, dc in the back loops only in each stitch across

9: ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across

Repeat rows 8 and 9 four times.

End of and weave in loose ends.

Shell Ruffles.

With the gown right side up (the unused front loops from your row 8's are the front) and the top facing you: 

10: Join your yarn to the 2nd unworked front loop stitch on the 1st row 9 with a sl st, *skip 1 stitch, hdc 5 times in the next stitch, skip 1 stitch, sl st in the next stitch* Repeat across until you have 3 unworked front loop stitches left. Finish off and weave in ends.

11: On the next row of unworked front loops, join your yarn to the 3rd unworked front loop stitch with a sl st, *skip 1 stitch, hdc 5 times in the next stitch, skip 1 stitch, sl st in the next stitch* Repeat across until you have 2 unworked front loop stitches left. Finish off and weave in ends.

Repeat 10 and 11 for the next 2 lots of unworked front loop rows.

For the last row of unworked front loops, repeat 10, but replace the HDC's with dc's

Weave in all ends

Attach 2 small buttons to the rear of the dress for closing.

2 Layer Flower

Hello all,

A simple little pattern today, and one that is excellent for the last few meters of yarn! A 2 layered flower!
This flower works great for most yarns, thickness's and hook sizes. I like to make them in fun colours to add to solid hats.

The small flower was made with lace weight mohair and a 2mm hook.
The middle blue glower was made with standard DK weight yarn and a 4.5mm hook
The chunky flower on the end was made with a 4.5mm hook still, but using a fluffy yarn that I would class as close to aran weight.

So, I wont be listing any supplies, just the basic instructions. If you want to make the flower have more layers, just repeat the chain behind the petal process, increasing by one chain each time, and add more triple crochets to the centre of each petal.

1: ch2, hdc 5 times in the 2nd chain from hook, join

2: ch1, (hdc, dc, hdc, ch1, sl) in same stitch, in each of the remaining  4 stitches do (sl, ch1, hdc, dc, hdc, ch1, sl)

3: ch4, sl st behind the flower and around the post between the previous rows petals (see images)
repeat around so you have 5 ch4 spaces

 4: Into each ch4 space around do (sl st, ch1, hgdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, ch1, sl) End off and leave a long tail so you can attach the flower wherever you desire.