Showing posts with label Gown. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gown. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 1, 2018

Peter Gown - Free Angel Gown Pattern



Good morning all!

Phew! What a crazy month it was last month with the blanket CAL! It was awesome, but it's nice to get back to some normalcy here on the blog. Of course, that means today is Preemie Pattern day! YAY!

Today's preemie pattern is for a small gown, that is made to match the Peter Beanie from 2016's Hat Drive! Like the hat, it also fits 24 weeks gestation. I did say I wanted to get some sets sorted, and I'm glad I finally have time to do so!

This is a very simple, straight forward gown and uses no more that 50g of yarn in your main colour, even less for the contrasting. This gown is fully open at the back, and uses ties to close. Of course you could do your own closure type should you choose to.

I used some Patons Fairytale Fab DK yarn for this one, but of course, any DK/8ply yarn will work.

Note: Row 5 LOOKS insane, but it isn't. It's just spaced out increases that have been wrote the long way that I usually do, so that beginners can easily follow along <3 Promise it isn't hard at all. Also, if tails bother you, weave them in as you go, because where there are stripes, there are lots of tails!




Peter Gown

Sized To Fit:
24 Weeks Gestation

You Will Need:
3.5mm hook
DK/8ply/Light Worsted weight yarn in a main and contrasting colour.

dc cluster - yarn over, insert hook in stitch, yarn over, pull through (3 on hook), yarn over, pull through 2, yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through 2, (3 on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 stitches. Cluster complete.

1: Ch24, dc in the second chain from hook, 2dc in the next chain, *dc in the next chain, 2dc in the next chain*, repeat across. -34

2: Ch3, turn, *dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch*, repeat across. -44

3: Ch3, turn, *dc in the next 3 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch*, repeat across. -55

4: Ch3, turn, dc in the first 8 stitches, ch2, skip the next 12 stitches, dc in the next 15 stitches, ch2, skip the next 12 stitches, dc in the last 9 stitches. -35 including chains (which will be refered to as stitches on the next row).

5: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in each of the next 3 stitches, dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the last 2 stitches. -48

6: Ch3, turn, dc in the first stitch, skip the next 3 stitches, *(cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next stitch, skip the next 3 stitches*, repeat across, dc in the last stitch.

Change to your contrasting colour

7: Ch3, turn, dc in the same stitch, *2dc in the ch2 space, dc in the next 2 stitches (cluster tops)*, repeat across, dc in the last 2 stitches, dc in the turning chain from the previous row.  -46

8-15: Repeat rows 6-7

Change to main colour

16: Ch1, turn, sc in each stitch across. End off

With the right side of your gown facing up (completely up to you, I prefer the dc rows to be facing the outside) rejoin the main colour to the top corner of the back of your gown and ch2, evenly hdc down the side of the opening, in the bottom corner stitch make 2hdc, hdc along the bottom of the gown, 2hdc in the next corner, hdc evenly back up the remaining side of the gown and slst into the top corner (do not crochet along the neckline) End off and weave in all tails.





To make the ties, attach the yarn to the spot on the back you want them, and chain 25. End off, weave in ends and trim the free end of the chain, not too close, you don't want it to unravel.






Monday, January 1, 2018

Rose Prem Gown




Good morning all and welcome to the first post for 2018, which also happens to be the first pattern for 2018 too!!

The break over the last month has been much welcome, but I have to say, also a little... boring! I barely even touched a crochet hook for over a month! So not like me at ALL!

But that's all good, because I'm refreshed, and raring to get on with this year!

I have some pretty big blog changes coming this year. One of which is a more frequent posting schedule! That's right, I've committed to a schedule and will do my up most to stick to it!

So, what does 2018 bring blog wise? Lots! Preemie, newborn, blanket and toy patterns will feature this year as far as crochet goes! Not to forget the September Itty Bitty Giant Hat Drive again this year (want to make an early start? Knock yourself out!) I'll also be introducing some more craft posts and lots more sharing. Most of you know that I'm a crafty kinda gal. The kind that crafts till her fingers fall off, then glue guns those suckers back on and crafts some more! I want to share more of that with you all. So you can expect to see more digital scrap kits, some felt board templates, oodles of toddler/kid themed downloadable content and crafts and also Christmas and Halloween crafts... ALL. YEAR. LONG! Yes, I love decorating for both so much that I thought we'd get a jump start and begin this month.

So as you can see, biiiiiiiiiiiig changes! I'm also working on more pattern translations, international organisations to pair up with for the hat drive (if you own/run one, please email me!!), and to finally make the leap across to YouTube, which is something I've been working towards for so long now!

Hold on to your hats lovelies, 2018, I'm coming!




Rose Prem Gown

Sized To Fit:
36 Weeks Gestation

You Will Need:
4.5mm hook
DK/8ply/Light Worsted weight yarn in main and contrasting colours. You will need less than 25g of the contrasting colour.


1: Ch30, dc in the 3rd ch from hook, 2dc in the next ch, *dc in the next ch, 2dc in the next ch* Repeat across (42)

2: Ch2, turn, *dc in the first 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch* Repeat across (56)

3: Ch2, turn, *dc in the first 3 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch* Repeat across (70)

4: Ch2, turn, *dc in the first 4 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch* Repeat across (84)

5: Ch2, turn, dc in the first 11 stitches, skip the next 19 stitches, dc in the next 24 stitches, skip the next 19 stitches, dc in the last 11 stitches. (46) Armholes Made

6: Ch2, turn, hdc in each stitch across (46)

7: Ch1, turn, in the first stitch (slst, ch3, 2dc), shell made *skip 2 stitches, (slst, ch3, 2dc) in the next stitch*, repeat across, sc in the last stitch.

8. Ch1, turn, (slst, ch3, 2dc) in the first sc, *in the ch3 space of the next shell (slst, ch3, 2dc)*, repeat across, when you reach the last shell, sc in the ch3 space.

9-14: Repeat row 8.

Change to contrasting colour

15-16: Repeat row 8

Change to main colour

17: Repeat row 8

Change to contrasting Colour

18-19: Repeat row 8


Change to main colour

20: Repeat row 8

Do not end off main colour, ch2, then word hdc's evenly up the side to the neckline. End off.

Reattach yarn to the other corner, ch2, and hdc evenly up the remaining side to the neckline. (If you are adding buttons instead of tied, this is where you need to make some button holes. You can easily do this by chaining 2, and skipping a stitch in the place you wish for a button to be)

End off and weave in all tails.

To make ties for the back, attach yarn in the place you want the tie to be and chain 28. Repeat for all remaining ties. OR if using buttons, sew them into place.

Sleeves

1: Reattach main colour to the bottom of any armhole and ch2, hdc evenly around the armhole for 24 stitches, join to the first hdc.

2: Ch2, hdc in each stitch around, join to the first hdc. End off main colour.

3: Attach contrasting colour to any stitch on the arm hole with a slst, ch1, dc into the same stitch, *skip the next stitch, (slst, ch1, dc)* into the next stitch, repeat around, joining with a slst. End off and weave in all tails.

Repeat 1-3 for the second arm hole.

Attach any decorations you like, and you are done!

Finished Measurements, laid flat, with back ties tied.
Sleeve Edge: 10cm across opening
Chest: 16cm across
Neckline to Hem: 32cm
Sleeve edge to Sleeve edge: 21cm



Sunday, March 12, 2017

Violet Gown

 
Good evening beautiful people!

Wow talk about drama trying to get this pattern up! The card reader in my PC decided it would be a great time to not read cards! I had to get Mr Mamma to open it up and sort it out for me. Thankfully, so far so good. Fingers crossed we have no further issues. I guess when you use a computer daily it's bound to have some issues eventually, especially after 2 years!

So without further ado, here is the Violet gown! Lovely ripples paired with picots make this dress an absolute stunner. I love that it is soft and delicate but also packs a little more UMPH in the visuals. It's a very quick dress too with easy repetitions. Sized as it it'll fir 26-28 Weeks gestation and is fully open at the back. I hope you love making this one as much as I did!



Violet Gown

Supplies:
3.5mm hook
4ply Fingering weight yarn
Buttons for closure (2-3)

Special Stitches:
Picot: ch3, slst into the 3rd chain from hook.

Sized To Fit:
26-28 Weeks Gestation.

Start with main colour.

1: Ch36, dc in the 3rd chain from hook and each across. - 34dc

2: Ch3, turn, 2dc in the next stitch, *dc in the next stitch, 2dc in the next stitch*, repeat across. -51dc

3: ch3, turn, dc in the next stitch, 2dc in the next stitch, *dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch*, repeat across. -68dc

4: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 11 stitches, skip the next 14 stitches, ch4, dc in the next 16 stitches, ch4, skip the next 14 stitches, dc in the last 12 stitches. -40dc, 8ch

Change to contrasting colour.

5: Ch1, turn, sc in each stitch and chain across. -48sc

6: Ch1, turn, 2sc in the next stitch, *sc in the next stitch, 2sc in the next stitch*, repeat across. -72sc

Change to main colour.

7: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 4 stitches, skip the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 4 stitches, *ch2, dc in the next 4 stitches, skip the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 4 stitches*, repeat across until there are 7 stitches left, skip the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the last stitch.

8: Ch3, turn, dc in the next stitch, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches, skip the next 2 stitches, *dc in the next 4 stitches, ch2, dc in the next 4 stitches, skip 2*, repeat across until there are 4 stitches left, dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the last stitch.

9: Ch3, turn, dc in the next stitch, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch, *skip the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 4 stitches, ch2, dc in the next 4 stitches*, repeat across until there are 7 stitches left, skip the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the last 2 stitches.

10-11: Repeat rows 8-9

12: Ch3, turn, dc in the next stitch, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches, *skip the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 3 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, ch2, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 3 stitches*, repeat across until there are 6 stitches left, skip the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the last stitch.

13: Ch3, turn, dc in the next stitch 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch, *skip the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 5 stitches, ch2, dc in the next 5 stitches*, repeat across until there are 7 stitches left, skip the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the last 2 stitches.

14: Ch3, turn, dc in the next stitch, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches, *skip the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 5 stitches, ch2, dc in the next 5 stitches* repeat across until there are 6 stitches left, skip the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the last stitch.

15-18: Repeat rows 13-14 twice.

Change to contrasting colour.

19: Complete this row crocheting in the back loops only of the stitches. Ch2, turn,*hdc in the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 4 stitches, hdc in the next 2 stitches, sc in the next stitch, sc in the ch2 gap, sc in the next stitch* repeat across, sc in the last 2 stitches.

20: ch2, turn, hdc in each stitch across,

21: ch1, turn, sc in the next stitch, *picot, sc in the next 2 stitches*, repeat across, sc in the last stitch. End off, weave in ends.

Sleeves:
1: With main colour, join yarn to any unworked stitch on the sleeve, ch2, hdc evenly around the arm hole for 26 stitches, join to the first hdc.

2: Ch2, hdc in each stitch around, join to the first hdc.

Change to contrasting colour

3: Ch1, *sc in the next 2 stitches, picot*, repeat around, join to the first sc.

End off and weave in all tails.

Attach buttons to the back of the dress, or ties if that's what you like.





Tuesday, February 14, 2017

Milada Gown



Good morning beautiful people!
Recently on my Facebook page I popped up a post asking if anyone had any requests and one that came in was from June who suggested something with hearts for Valentines day. Such a lovely request and one that immediately sparked some ideas! This is the first that I've finished, and just in time for Valentines too!

This sweet little gown is fully front opening and features a clever little heart stitch, which is made up using clusters! I hope you love it as much as I do.



Milada Gown

Sized To Fit: 
26-28 weeks (2-2.5lbs)

You Will Need:
DK weight yarn in a main colour, and 2 small amounts of contrasting colours.
3mm hook
Desired amount of buttons.

Special Stitches:

Starting cluster: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 on hook), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.

Cluster: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 on hook), yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch, yarn over and pull through, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (4 on hook) yarn over and pull through all 4 loops.

1: Ch93, dc into the 3rd chain from hook and each across -91dc 44cm long

Change to contrasting colour 1 (for me that was pink)

2: Ch3, turn, starting cluster in the same stitch, ch3, skip 6 stitches, *(cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next stitch, ch3, skip 6 stitches*, repeat across, cluster in the last stitch.

Change to main colour

3: Ch1, turn, sc in the same stitch, ch2, * { working the stitch in front of the chains}, dc into the 3rd and 4th stitch from the group of 6 stitches you skipped over on the previous row, ch2, sc into the ch2 space between the clusters, ch2*, repeat across, your last sc will be in the ch3 from the previous round.

4: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch and chain across.

Change to contrasting colour 2 (for me that was grey)

5: Repeat row 2

Change to main colour.

6-7: Repeat rows 3-4

Change to contrasting colour 1 (pink)

8: Repeat row 2

Change to main colour.

9-10: Repeat rows 3-4 (92dc at the end of row 10)

11: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 4 stitches, dc2tg, *dc in the next 5 stitches, dc2tg*, repeat across, skip the last stitch (the ch3 from the previous row). -78dc

12: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 3 stitches, dc2tg, *dc in the next 4 stitches, dc2tg*, repeat across. -65dc

13: Ch2, turn, hdc in the next 2 stitches, hdc2tg, *hdc in the next 3 stitches, hdc2tg*, repeat across. -52hdc

14-16: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across. -52dc

Change to contrasting colour 1.

17: Ch2, turn, hdc in each stitch across.

Change to contrasting colour 2.

18: Ch2, turn, hdc in each stitch across.

Change to contrasting colour 1.

19: Ch2, turn, hdc in each stitch across. - 52dc (19cm in height by this point)

Change to main colour

20: Ch2, turn, hdc in each stitch across.

Shaping the top

21: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 9 stitches. Leave the rest unworked. -10dc

22: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across. -10dc

23: Ch2, turn, hdc2tg, hdc2tg, hdc in the next 5 stitches. - 8hdc

24: Ch1, turn, sc in the next 4 stitches, slst in the next stitch.

25: Turn without chaining, skip the slst, sc in the next 5 stitches. -5sc

26-28: Ch1, turn, sc in the next 4 stitches. -5sc

End off yarn and weave in ends.

With wrong side facing up join your yarn to the 1st unworked stitch on row 21 (see pic below)



29-36: Repeat rows 21-28

Mark off the 8th stitch in from each front side section on the 21st row (see pic below) this will be the back of your dress.



37: Join your yarn to the 8th stitch (the one you marked) on the RIGHT side and ch3, dc in each of the next 17 stitches (this will take you to the next mark) - 18dc

38: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across. -18dc

39: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 5 stitches, sc in the next 6 stitches, dc in the next 6 stitches. - 18 stitches

40: Ch3, turn, dc2tg, dc in the next 3 stitches, sc in the next 6 stitches, dc in the next 3 stitches, dc2tg, dc in the last stitch. - 16 stitches

41: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 4 stitches -5dc

42-43: Repeat row 41. End off and weave in tails.

44:Rejoin your yarn to the outermost unworked stitch from row 40 and ch3, dc in the next 4 stitches. -5dc.

45-46: Ch3, turn, dc in the next 4 stitches, -5dc

,

End off and weave in all tails.

Fold the front of the dress closed. Line up the shoulder straps and sew them together.



With your main colour rejoin your yarn to the bottom left corner of the gown and hdc evenly up the side until you reach the first pink stripe, then sc up and around the neckline and back down until you reach the second pink stripe, then evenly hdc the rest of the way down to the corner.





The last row will depend entirely on where you want to place your buttons and what size they are. Mark off where your buttons will go (I popped stitch markers in the spaces) you will need to create loops when you are opposite to the button marker.



For the last row you can also choose to ch1, turn, and sc for the row, OR you can do a reverse sc, also known as a crab stitch. I did the crab stitch, as I wanted the edge to be more decorative. If you are unfamiliar with this stitch, you can see how it's done here: Crab Stitch Video

Evenly crab stitch or sc up the side of the gown, around the neckline and back down the other side. When your next stitch will be opposite a button marker ch4 (or however many you need to create a loop big enough for your button) and then continue on sc/crab stitching around.

When you reach the corner of your gown where we joined the main colour, do 2 hdc into the corner stitch, and then continue with either sc or crab stitch along the hem of the gown. Join to the ch1 from the start of this row to complete the edging.

Rejoin your main colour to any stitch on the armholes and either ch1 and sc evenly around the opening, joining to the ch1 to end, or crab stitch around the opening. Do both armholes. End off and weave in tails.

Attach buttons and your done!



Sunday, February 7, 2016

Delicate Princess Newborn Dress




Hello all, and welcome to the first pattern for 2016! I really had hoped to get this up at the start of January, but like usual, life  had other ideas. None the less, it is finally finished and I'm so happy with how it came out. 


 I've been wanting to make a newborn sized thread gown ever since I finished the Wendy Gown, but didn't have the right supplies. I'm glad I finally got around to it because I LOVE this dress. It is so sweet and delicate, from its thread to its dainty picots to its soft ribbon bow. It would be a fantastic coming home outfit for a little girl, and also wonderful for photographs.




The pattern itself isn't a hard one to follow, in fact I'm confident that people who are relatively new to crocheting should be able to follow along just fine. It gets a little fiddly, but it is so beautiful that it's worth the effort.

Now, I couldn't just stop at the dress, oh no. So I have in the works some matching pieces to go with it, which will be released over the next month or so, so keep an eye out for them too!


Size:
Full term newborn (6-9lb)
You Will Need:
Thread. I used Sullivans International Natural Soft Crochet and Knitting Thread. It says on the packet 4ply equivalent, so you could also use a 4ply yarn. You will need 2 balls. 
3mm Hook
Tulle
3 Buttons
Ribbon (about a meter)

Special Stitches:
trc = Triple Crochet Learn how to do it here.

Chains counts as a stitch, the last stitch of each row should be made into the top of the ch's from the previous row.

1. Chain 60, dc in the 3rd chain from hook, *2dc in the next chain, dc in the next chain*, repeat across – 87 

2. Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across – 87 

3. Ch3, turn, *dc in the next 3 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch*, repeat across – 106 

4. Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across – 106 

5. Repeat round 4


                                        


6. Ch3, turn, dc in the first 13 atitches, skip 28 stitches, ch2, dc in the next 23 stitches, ch2, skip 28 stitches, dc in the last 14 stitches – 55 including chains 

7. Ch3, turn, dc in the same stitch, 2dc in each stitch and chain across – 110 

8-9. ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across.

10. ch4 (counts as dc and ch1), *dc in the next 2 stitches, ch1* repeat across, skip the last stitch and dc in the ch3. 

11-14. ch5 (counts as dc and ch2), turn, *dc in the next 2 dc’s, ch2*, repeat across, dc in the last stitch. 

15-22. ch6 (counts as dc and ch3), turn, dc in the next 2 dc’s, ch3*, repeat across, dc in the last stitch. 

23-25. ch7 (counts as dc and ch4), turn, *dc in the next 2 dc’s, ch4*, repeat across, dc in the last stitch.

26. ch8 (counts as trc and ch4), *trc in the next 2 dc's, ch4*, repeat across, trc in the last stitch.

27. ch1, turn, *in the next ch4 gap (sc 3 times, picot, sc 3 times), sc in the next 2 trc's* repeat across. sc in the last stitch.

Do not end off. Sc evenly up the side of the back opening. End off. Attach yarn to the bottom of the other side of the back opening and sc up that evenly too. 

Sleeves.

1. Join yarn to any stitch (I aim for a spot under the arm to hide the join) and sc evenly around the entire arm hole 38 times, join.

2-4. ch2, hdc in each stitch around, join.

5. ch1, sc in the first 5 stitches, sc2tg, sc in the next 8 stitches, sc2tg, sc in the next 5 stitches, sc2tg, sc in the next 8 stitches, sc2tg, sc in the last 4 stitches, join. - 34

6. ch1, sc in each stitch around, join.

7. ch1, *sc in the next 4 stitches, sc2tg*, repeat around, join.

8. ch1, sc in each stitch around, join.

End off, weave in tails. Repeat rounds 1-8 for the second sleeve

Making the underskirt,

Chain 115, hdc in the second chain from hook and each across. End off leaving a very long tail, to sew the underskirt to the dress.  


                                     


Cut your tulle. I purchase mine in rolls that are 15cm wide. I cut my lengths to 50cm, and then trimmed once attached. I needed 36 strips of tulle for the skirt. This created a very full skirt. You could use less if you wanted less floof. 

I attached the tulle to every 3rd stitch. To do this, fold the tulle strip in half, pull the loop through a stitch, pass the ends of the strip through the loop and pull it tight.

Work slow doing this, if you pull too hard you will pull the stitches out of shape, This past is a bit fiddly.




   






Lay your dress flat, wrong side up. You will want to attach the underskirt to the bottom of row 9. When you are sewing the skirt to the dress, be sure to pick up the back stitches, instead of going right through your piece, you don't want the stitches showing on the right side. One side will be about an inch short, this is the side that will go over the buttons. Weave in all tails securely.





Attach your 3 buttons to the back of the dress.

For the bow, cut 2 lengths of ribbon. One will be threaded in and out of every group of 2 stitches on row 9. This piece ties at the rear. To make the bow at the front take the second piece of ribbon and tie it in a knot around the first piece of thread in the middle of the front of the gown. Tie a bow tightly, Cut the tails to the desired length.

That's it, your gown is done! I hope you have as much fun making this as I did. Don't forget to share your photos on the Ravelry Page.


Wednesday, May 6, 2015

Lula Gown - Free Crochet Pattern



Morning all! Wow its been a wild week here in Tasmania, the weather has been insane. Which is part of the reason why today's post is a little late. Between power outages and bad light for photos its been a bit of a challenge. Still, here is today's post and I hope its one you enjoy. A pretty little prem gown. This gown will fit 20-22 weeks gestation and has a lovely stitch pattern. The repeat is really simple to memorise as well, making it a great on the go project. I really love the stitch pattern and I think I might have to make a matching hat or blanket with the same stitch.






SIZE:
This gown will fit a baby of 20-22 weeks gestation.

SUPPLIES:
3ply Yarn. I used Peter Pan spot print by Wendy. (4ply would work fine as well)
3.25mm hook
buttons for closing
small amount of contrasting colour for the bow

Lula Gown

1: ch35, hdc into the second chain from hook, hdc in the next chain, 2hdc in the next chain, *hdc, hdc, 2hdc* repeat across, hdc in the last chain.

2: ch2, turn, *hdc, hdc, 2hdc*, repeat across.

3: ch2, turn, hdc in each stitch across.

4: ch2, turn, hdc in each stitch across, 2hdc in the last stitch. (60)

5: ch2, turn, hdc in the first 9 stitches, ch4, skip 11 stitches, hdc in the next 20 stitches, ch4, skip the next 11 stitches, hdc in the last 9 stitches.

6: ch2, turn, hdc in the first 9 stitches, hdc 5 times in the ch4 space, hdc in the next 20 stitches, hdc 5 times in the next ch4 space, hdc in the last 9 stitches. (48)

7: ch1, turn, sc in each stitch across.

8: ch3, turn, *skip 3 stitches, (3dc, ch1, 3dc) in the 4th stitch* repeat across (total of 11 shells), skip 3, dc in the last stitch.

9: ch4, turn, *sc into the ch1 space, ch6* repeat across, after you sc in the last ch1 space ch3 and dc into the top of the turning chain from the previous round.

10: ch3, turn, *(3dc, ch1, 3dc) in the next sc, skip the next lot of chains*, repeat across. After the last shell dc into the 2nd chain of the previous rows turning chain

Repeat rows 9 and 10 7 times (14 rows) ending with row 10. End off. Weave in tails.

SLEEVES
Join yarn to any stitch on the sleeve with a sc, and evenly sc around the entire arm hole, join (I had 17sc's)

*ch2, sc in the next stitch* repeat around, join. End off and weave in tails.

Repeat for second sleeve.

Attach button to the back.

If you want to add the bow to the front, chain 60 and tie it into a bow, then stitch it on. Of course you could leave it off completely or use a satin bow or even a button or appliqué.


Wednesday, April 1, 2015

Sophia Gown - Free Crochet Pattern





Good morning lovlies,

I am happy to share with you today this months preemie pattern. This one, I actually started last year and I picked it up and put it down again many times, trying to figure out where I wanted to go with it. I'm so glad it is finally done! Such a sweet and delicate little gown. The Sophia gown comes in 2 sizes, but I will be adding a third once I've had a chance to test it fully. If you want to make this in NEWBORN (full term) size then go with worsted weight yarn and a 5.5mm or 6mm hook and you should be right. I'll edit once I've finished mine but so far so good!




Now this one looks a little long winded but it is NOT complicated. I've wrote it out using less shorthand then I usually would, as I know a few beginners that would like to tackle this. If you are struggling to remember what section you are at, try printing the pattern and highlighting the parts as you do it. Once you see the repeats you should be fine.



Tłumaczenie polsko poniżej.



TO MAKE 32-34 WEEKS
4.5mm hook
DK weight yarn in main and contrasting colours.

TO MAKE 18-20 WEEKS
2.5mm hook
4ply (fingering or even sock) yarn in main and contrasting colours

The smaller dress with the stripes, colour changes happen on rows 5 and 10.

Optional: Button for closure

Special Stitches: 3dc cluster - yarn over, insert hook into stitch, pull yarn through (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops (2 on hook),  yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, pull yarn through (4 on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops (3 on hook), yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, pull yarn through (5 on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops (4 on hook), yarn over, pull through all stitches. Cluster made.

NOTE: No stitches are made in the top of the clusters, these are skipped on every row.

1: ch30, dc in the 3rd ch from hook, 2dc in the next ch, *dc in the next ch, 2dc in the next ch* Repeat across (42)
2: ch2, turn, *dc in the first 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch* Repeat across (56)
3: ch2, turn, *dc in the first 3 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch* Repeat across (70)
4: ch2, turn, *dc in the first 4 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch* Repeat across (84)
5: ch2, turn, dc in the first 11 stitches, skip the next 19 stitches, dc in the next 24 stitches, skip the next 19 stitches, dc in the last 11 stitches. (46)
6: ch1, turn, sc across (46)

7: ch2, turn, dc in the first 6 stitches, sk1, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next stitch, sk1, dc in the next 3 stitches, sk1, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next stitch, sk1, dc in the next 3 stitches, sk1, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next stitch, sk1, dc in the next 4 stitches, sk1, (cluster, ch2, cluster), sk1, dc in the next 3 stitches, sk1, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next stitch, sk1, dc in the next 3 stitches, sk1, (cluster, ch2, cluster), sk1, dc in the last 6 stitches. (28dc's, 6 sets of clusters)

8: ch2, turn, dc in the first 6 stitches,  (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the ch2 space, dc 3, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next ch2 space, dc 3,  (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next ch2 space, dc 4,  (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next ch2 space, dc 3, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next ch2 space, dc 3, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next ch2 space, dc in the last 6 stitches. (28dc's, 6 sets of clusters)

9: ch2, turn, dc in the first 6 stitches,  (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next ch2 space, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch, 2dc in the next stitch, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next ch2 space, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch, 2dc in the next stitch, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next ch2 space, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next ch2 space, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch, 2dc in the next stitch, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next ch2 space, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch, 2dc in the next stitch, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next ch2 space, dc in the last 6 stitches. (38dc's 6 sets of clusters)

10: ch2, turn, dc in the first 6 stitches, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next ch2 space, dc 5, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next ch2 space, dc 5, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next ch2 space, dc 6, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next ch2 space, dc 5, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next ch2 space, dc 5, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the next ch2 space, dc in the last 6 stitches. (38dc's 6 sets of clusters)

11: ch2, turn, dc in the first 6 stitches, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the ch2 space, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 3 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the  ch2 space, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 3 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the ch2 space, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 4 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the ch2 space, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 3 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the ch2 space, 2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 3 stitches, 2dc in the next stitch, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the ch2 space, dc in the last 6 stitches. (48dc's 6 sets of clusters)

12: ch2, turn, dc in the first 6 stitches, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the ch2 space, dc 7, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the ch2 space, dc 7, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the ch 2 space, dc 7, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the ch2 space, dc 8, (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the ch2 space, dc 7, (cluster, ch2, cluster)  in the ch2 space, dc 7,  (cluster, ch2, cluster) in the ch2 space, dc in the last 6 stitches. (48dc's 6 sets of clusters)

13-21: Repeat row 12

End off main colour and join contrasting

22: ch1, turn, sc in the first 6 stitches, 5sc in the ch2 gap, sc 7, 5sc in the ch2 gap, sc 7, 5sc in the ch2 gap, sc 8, 5sc in the ch2 gap, sc 7, 5sc in the ch2 gap, sc 7, 5sc in the ch2 gap, sc in the last 6 stitches. (74 sc's)

23: ch1, turn, *sc in the first stitch, (sc, picot) in the next stitch* repeat across. End off.

Sleeve Edging

1: Join contrasting yarn to any stitch in the armhole and ch1, sc evenly around the entire armhole for 24 stitches, join.

2: ch1, *sc in the first stitch, (sc, picot) in the next stitch* repeat round, join. End off.

Weave in all ends.

Closure options. You can use a button for closing. You can make chains for ties (purple/cream dress) and you can also make a longer chain that weaves in and out (I did this on round 6 of the pink dress) of stitches and ties at the back. You could also use ribbon.




Tłumaczenie polsko poniżej.

Sukieneczka Sophia

Materiały:
18-22 tygodnie ciąży:
  • szydeÅ‚ko 2,5
  • włóczka 4ply w dwóch kolorach, głównym i kontrastujÄ…cym
    • włóczka 4ply - 350-450m/100g
32-34 tygodnie ciąży:
  • szydeÅ‚ko 4,5
  • włóczka DK weight w dwóch kolorach, głównym i kontrastujÄ…cym
    • włóczka DK weight - 200-250m/100g
guziki opcjonalnie

Åšciegi specjalne:
  • pÄ™czek z trzech sÅ‚upków - narzuć na szydeÅ‚ko, wsadź szydeÅ‚ko w oczko, i przeciÄ…gnij włóczkÄ™ (3 pÄ™telki na szydeÅ‚ku), narzuć na szydeÅ‚ko, przeciÄ…gnij przez 2 pÄ™telki (2 pÄ™telki zostaÅ‚y na szydeÅ‚ku),  narzuć na szydeÅ‚ko, wsadź szydeÅ‚ko w to samo oczko, przeciÄ…gnij włóczkÄ™ (4 pÄ™telki na szydeÅ‚ku), narzuć na szydeÅ‚ko, przeciÄ…gnij przez 2 pÄ™telki (3 pÄ™telki na szydeÅ‚ku), narzuć na szydeÅ‚ko, wsadź szydeÅ‚ko w to samo oczko, przeciÄ…gnij włóczkÄ™ (5 pÄ™telek na szydeÅ‚ku), narzuć na szydeÅ‚ko, przeciÄ…gnij przez 2 pÄ™telki (4 pÄ™telki na szydeÅ‚ku), narzuć na szydeÅ‚ko, przeciÄ…gnij przez wszystkie pÄ™telki z szydeÅ‚ka. PÄ™czek gotowy :)

Uwaga:
  • Na pÄ™czku nie robimy żadnego sciegu. PÄ™czki sÄ… opuszczane w kazdym rzÄ™dzie.

Rząd 1: 30 oczek łańcuszka, 1x słupek w trzecim oczku od szydełka, 2x słupek w następnym oczku, *1x słupek w następnym oczku, 2x słupek w następnym oczku* Powtarzać do końca (42)

Rząd 2: 2 oczka łańcuszka na odwrócenie rzędu, odwrócić, *1x słupek w pierwszych 2 , 2x słupek w następnym* Powtarzać do końca (56)

Rząd 3: 2 oczka łańcuszka, odwrócić, *1x słupek w pierwszych 3, 2x słupek w następnym* Powtarzać do końca (70)

Rząd 4: 2 oczka łańcuszka, odwrócić, *1x słupek w pierwszych 4, 2x słupek w następnym* Powtarzać do końca (84)

Rząd 5: 2 oczka łańcuszka, odwrócić, 1x słupek w 11 oczkach, opuść następne 19 oczek, 1x słupek w następnych 24 oczkach, opuść następne 19 oczek, 1x słupek w ostatnich 11 oczkach. (46)

Rząd 6: 1 oczko łańcuszka, odwrócić, półsłupki do końca (46)
Rząd 7: 2 oczka łańcuszka, 1x słupek w pierwszych 6 oczkach, opuść 1 oczko, (pęczek, 2 oczka łańcuszka, pęczek) w następnym oczku, opuść 1 oczko, 1x słupek w następnych 3 oczkach, opuść 1 oczko, (pęczek, 2 oczka łańcuszka, pęczek) w następnym oczku, opuść 1 oczko, 1x słupek w następnych 3 oczkach, opuść 1 oczko, (pęczek, 2 oczka łańcuszka, pęczek) w następnym oczku, opuść 1 oczko, 1x słupek w następnych 4 oczkach, opuść 1 oczko, (pęczek, 2 oczka łańcuszka, pęczek) w następnym oczku, opuść 1 oczko, 1x słupek w następnych 3 oczkach, opuść 1 oczko, (pęczek, 2 oczka łańcuszka, pęczek) w następnym oczku, opuść 1 oczko, 1x słupek w następnych 3 oczkach, opuść 1 oczko, (pęczek, 2 oczka łańcuszka, pęczek) w następnym oczku, opuść 1 oczko, 1x słupek w ostatnich 6 oczkach. (28 słupków, 6 grup pęczków)

RzÄ…d 8: 2 oczka Å‚aÅ„cuszka, odwrócić, 1x sÅ‚upek w pierwszych 6 oczkach, (pÄ™czek, 2 oczka Å‚aÅ„cuszka, pÄ™czek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek Å‚aÅ„cuszka, 1x sÅ‚upek w nastÄ™pnych 3 oczkach, (pÄ™czek, 2 oczka Å‚aÅ„cuszka, pÄ™czek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek Å‚aÅ„cuszka, 1x sÅ‚upek w nastÄ™pnych 3 oczkach,  (pÄ™czek, 2 oczka Å‚aÅ„cuszka, pÄ™czek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek Å‚aÅ„cuszka, 1x sÅ‚upek w nastÄ™pnych 4 oczkach,  (pÄ™czek, 2 oczka Å‚aÅ„cuszka, pÄ™czek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek Å‚aÅ„cuszka, 1x sÅ‚upek w nastÄ™pnych 3 oczkach, (pÄ™czek, 2 oczka Å‚aÅ„cuszka, pÄ™czek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek Å‚aÅ„cuszka, 1x sÅ‚upek w nastÄ™pnych 3 oczkach, (pÄ™czek, 2 oczka Å‚aÅ„cuszka, pÄ™czek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek Å‚aÅ„cuszka, 1x sÅ‚upek w ostatnich 6 oczkach. (28 sÅ‚upków, 6 grup pÄ™czków)

RzÄ…d 9: 2 oczka Å‚aÅ„cuszka,odwrócić, 1x sÅ‚upek w pierwszych 6 oczkach,  (pÄ™czek, 2 oczka Å‚aÅ„cuszka, pÄ™czek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek Å‚aÅ„cuszka, 2x sÅ‚upek w nastÄ™pnym oczku, 1x sÅ‚upek w nastÄ™pnym oczku, 2x sÅ‚upek w nastÄ™pnym oczku, (pÄ™czek, 2 oczka Å‚aÅ„cuszka, pÄ™czek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek Å‚aÅ„cuszka, 2x sÅ‚upek w nastÄ™pnym oczku, 1x sÅ‚upek w nastÄ™pnym oczku, 2x sÅ‚upek w nastÄ™pnym oczku, (pÄ™czek, 2 oczka Å‚aÅ„cuszka, pÄ™czek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek Å‚aÅ„cuszka, 2x sÅ‚upek w nastÄ™pnym oczku, 1x sÅ‚upek w nastÄ™pnych 2 oczkach, 2x sÅ‚upek w nastÄ™pnym oczku, (pÄ™czek, 2 oczka Å‚aÅ„cuszka, pÄ™czek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek Å‚aÅ„cuszka, 2x sÅ‚upek w nastÄ™pnym oczku, 1x sÅ‚upek w nastÄ™pnym oczku, 2x sÅ‚upek w nastÄ™pnym oczku, (pÄ™czek, 2 oczka Å‚aÅ„cuszka, pÄ™czek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek Å‚aÅ„cuszka, 2x sÅ‚upek w nastÄ™pnym oczku, 1x sÅ‚upek w nastÄ™pnym oczku, 2x sÅ‚upek w nastÄ™pnym oczku, (pÄ™czek, 2 oczka Å‚aÅ„cuszka, pÄ™czek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek Å‚aÅ„cuszka, 1x sÅ‚upek w ostatnich 6 oczkach. (38 sÅ‚upków, 6 grup pÄ™czków)

Rząd 10: 2 oczka łańcuszka, odwrócić, 1x słupek w pierwszych 6 oczkach, (pęczek, 2 oczka łańcuszka, pęczek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek łańcuszka, 1x słupek w 5 następnych oczkach, (pęczek, 2 oczka łańcuszka, pęczek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek łańcuszka, 1x słupek w 5 następnych oczkach, (pęczek, 2 oczka łańcuszka, pęczek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek łańcuszka, 1x słupek w 6 następnych oczkach, (pęczek, 2 oczka łańcuszka, pęczek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek łańcuszka, 1x słupek w 5 następnych oczkach, (pęczek, 2 oczka łańcuszka, pęczek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek łańcuszka, 1x słupek w 5 następnych oczkach, (pęczek, 2 oczka łańcuszka, pęczek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek łańcuszka, 1x słupek w ostatnich 6 oczkach. (38 słupków, 6 grup pęczków)

Rząd 11: 2 oczka łańcuszka, odwrócić, 1x słupek w pierwszych 6 oczkach, (pęczek, 2 oczka łańcuszka, pęczek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek łańcuszka, 2x słupek w następnym oczku, 1x słupek w następnych 3 oczkach, 2x słupek w następnym oczku, (pęczek, 2 oczka łańcuszka, pęczek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek łańcuszka, 2x słupek w następnym oczku, 1x słupek w następnych 3 oczkach, 2x słupek w następnym oczku, (pęczek, 2 oczka łańcuszka, pęczek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek łańcuszka, 2x słupek w następnym oczku, 1x słupek w następnych 4 oczkach, 2x słupek w następnym oczku, (pęczek, 2 oczka łańcuszka, pęczek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek łańcuszka, 2x słupek w następnym oczku, 1x słupek w następnych 3 oczkach, 2x słupek w następnym oczku, (pęczek, 2 oczka łańcuszka, pęczek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek łańcuszka, 2x słupek w następnym oczku, 1x słupek w następnych 3 oczkach, 2x słupek w następnym oczku, (pęczek, 2 oczka łańcuszka, pęczek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek łańcuszka, 1x słupek w ostatnich 6 oczkach. (48 słupków, 6 grup pęczków)

RzÄ…d 12: 2 oczka Å‚aÅ„cuszka, odwrócić, 1x sÅ‚upek w pierwszych 6 oczkach, (pÄ™czek, 2 oczka Å‚aÅ„cuszka, pÄ™czek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek Å‚aÅ„cuszka, 1x sÅ‚upek w 7 nastÄ™pnych oczkach, (pÄ™czek, 2 oczka Å‚aÅ„cuszka, pÄ™czek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek Å‚aÅ„cuszka, 1x sÅ‚upek w 7 nastÄ™pnych oczkach, (pÄ™czek, 2 oczka Å‚aÅ„cuszka, pÄ™czek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek Å‚aÅ„cuszka, 1x sÅ‚upek w 8 nastÄ™pnych oczkach, (pÄ™czek, 2 oczka Å‚aÅ„cuszka, pÄ™czek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek Å‚aÅ„cuszka, 1x sÅ‚upek w 7 nastÄ™pnych oczkach, (pÄ™czek, 2 oczka Å‚aÅ„cuszka, pÄ™czek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek Å‚aÅ„cuszka, 1x sÅ‚upek w 7 nastÄ™pnych oczkach,  (pÄ™czek, 2 oczka Å‚aÅ„cuszka, pÄ™czek) w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek Å‚aÅ„cuszka, 1x sÅ‚upek w ostatnich 6 oczkach. (48 sÅ‚upków, 6 grup pÄ™czków)

Rzędy13-21: Powtarzać rząd 12

Zakończ kolor główny i dołącz kontrastujący.

Rząd 22: 1 oczko łańcuszka, odwrócić, 1x półsłupek w pierwszych 6 oczkach, 5x półsłupek w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek łańcuszka, 1x półsłupek w kolejnych 7 oczkach, 5x półsłupek w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek łańcuszka, 1x półsłupek w kolejnych 7 oczkach, 5x półsłupek w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek łańcuszka, 1x półsłupek w kolejnych 8 oczkach, 5x półsłupek w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek łańcuszka, 1x półsłupek w kolejnych 7 oczkach, 5x półsłupek w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek łańcuszka, 1x półsłupek w kolejnych 7 oczkach, 5x półsłupek w przerwie utworzonej z 2 oczek łańcuszka, 1x półsłupek w ostatnich oczkach. (74 półsłupków)

Rząd 23: 1 oczko łańcuszka, odwrócić, *1x półsłupek, (półsłupek, pikotek) w kolejnym oczku* powtarzać do końca. Zakończyć.

Zakończenie rękawków

Rząd 1: Dołącz włóczkę w kontrastującym kolorze do dowolnego oczka. 1 oczko łańcuszka, półsłupek równomiernie dookoła całego rękawka do uzyskania 24 półsłupków, połącz.

Rząd 2: 1 oczko łańcuszka, *1x półsłupek, (półsłupek, pikotek) w kolejnym oczku* powtarzaj dookoła, połącz. Zakończ.

Opcje zapięcia:
  1. Możesz użyć guziczkow. Możesz zrobić sznureczek z łańcuszków do zawiązania (purpurowo/kremowa sukieneczka)
  2. Możesz również zrobić dłuższy sznureczek, przeciągnąć go pomiędzy oczkami i zawiązać z tyłu. (Zrobiłam tak w 6 rzędzie różowej sukienki)
  3. Możesz również użyć wstążeczki.

Saturday, June 7, 2014

Wendy Thread Gown - Free Pattern



Good morning everyone!
Wow it has been super crazy around here this week! A lot of finishing and designing and organising and a wee bit of relaxing as well.

Today's pattern is a lovely little gown made from thread. A huge thankyou to Lisa from Crochet Quackers who sent in the thread for me to play with.
The thread I am using today is DMC Babylo, which is a 3ply size 10 cotton thread. It is incredibly light. I used the best part of a 50g ball for the dress, and I am hoping I'll have enough left from the ball for a matching hat.
Working with thread can be a little challenging, and it does take a bit more time then a thicker yarn, but the results are so wonderful that it is definitely worth the effort.
This gown is designed to fit a bub of 26 weeks gestation, however you could upsize it using thicker yarn/larger hooks. I intend on testing it with some 5ply sports weight down the track, so I will let you know how that goes once I have done it.


Supplies:
3ply crochet thread (size10)
2mm hook
2.5mm hook
3mm hook
Small button
Small bow

With a 2mm hook and thread

1: ch65, hdc in the 2nd chain from hook and each across - (64)
2: ch2, turn, hdc in each stitch across - (64)\
3-5: Repeat row 2
6: ch2, turn, hdc 12
7-9: ch2, turn, hdc 12. End off.
Lay the piece with the 12hdc rows on the right,count off 10 stitches from row 5 and join yarn in the 11th.
10: ch2, hdc in the next 16 stitches - (16hdc)
10-13: ch2, turn, hdc in each stitch across - (16)
14: ch2, turn, hdc in the first 4 stitches - (4)
15-20: ch2, turn, hdc across - (4) End off leaving a long tail.
Rejoin the yarn on the 1st stitch of row 13
21: ch2, hdc in the first 4 stitches - (4)
22-27: ch2, turn, hdc across - (4) End off leaving a long tail.
Lay the piece with the hdc rows from 6-9 on the left. Join the yarn to the top of the first stitch from row 5 (furthest stitch on the right hand side)
28: ch2, hdc in the same stitch and in the next15 stitches - (16)
29-31: ch2, turn, hdc across - (16)

Sew the sleeve sections together as pictured below



Turn your piece upside down so you have the bottom of the bodice at the top and join your yarn to the corner (will be the same chains we started with)
32: ch2, hdc in each stitch across (64)
33: ch3, turn, *skip 1 stitch, (dc, ch1, dc) in the next stitch, repeat across, dc in the last stitch
34-37: ch3, turn, (dc, ch1, dc) in each ch1 space across, dc in the top of the ch3 at the end
38: ch3, turn, *(dc, ch1, dc) in the first 2 ch1 spaces, (dc, ch1, dc) in the space BETWEEN the ch1 just used and the next ch1 space* (this makes our increase), repeat across, dc in the top of the ch3 at the end.
39-40: ch3, turn, (dc, ch1, dc) in each ch1 space across, dc in the top of the ch3 at the end
Change to a 2.5mm hook
41-44: ch3, turn, (dc, ch1, dc) in each ch1 space across, dc in the top of the ch3 at the end
Change to a 3.00mm hook
45-47: ch3, turn, (dc, ch1, dc) in each ch1 space across, dc in the top of the ch3 at the end
48: ch3, turn, 2dc in the same stitch, *sl st into the next ch1 space, 5dc into the next ch1 space* repeat across, 3dc in the last ch1 space, dc in the top of the ch3.
End off and weave in ends.

Sleeves:
Join yarn to any stitch on the arm opening
1: ch1, sc evenly around the entire arm hole (36)
2: ch4, dc in the same stitch, *skip 1, (dc, ch1, dc) in the next stitch* repeat around, join to the 3rd chain from the starting chain.
3-6: sl st into the ch1 space, ch4, dc in the same space, (dc, ch1, dc) in each ch1 space around, join to the 3rd chain in the starting chain.
7: ch1, sc in each ch1 space around, join.
8: ch1, sc in each stitch around, join.
End off and weave in ends.
Repeat for second sleeve.

Collar:
1: Join yarn to any corner of the neck opening and sc evenly around the entire neckline (for me that was 52 stitches)
Mark off the front 11 stitches of the neck as shown below.

2: ch1, turn, sc until you get to the stitch before the first marker, skip 2 stitches, dc 10 times in the next stitch, using the front loop only, skip 2 stitches, sl st into the front loop of the next stitch, skip 2 stitches, dc 10 times into the front loop of the next stitch, skip 2 stitches, sc in all remaining stitches.
End off and weave in ends.
If your collar sits up a little you can iron it down, press it, or using the same yarn tack it into place.

Add a button to the back of the gown and the small bow to the front.
You may like to also run a ribbon around the bottom of the bodice if you prefer that to a bow.

Laid flat this gown measures approx. 22cm from the shoulder to the hem, and 12.5cm across the bottom of the bodice before the skirt section when laid flat.