My Sweet Alice

Good morning lovelies.

I know, I know. It's been forever since I blogged. I fell off the grid for a while there. I promise though, there was a good reason for that, and Im hoping that today's pattern makes up for the lack of them in the last few months.

Around the start of November, after months and months and months of trying, my partner and I finally got the amazing news that we were expecting another wee baby. How exciting! How joyus!

With Christmas just around the corner we decided to tell nooone at all, and we would make little gifts up to announce on Christmas day. I wanted to pop ultrasound photos into clear baubles with some glitter and fake snow. How wonderful a gift would that be? What a surprise for the kids! We started dreaming of names, thinking up nursery themes, planning a future with more noise and love.

Mid November, things got scary. Lots of light bleeding. Things didn't feel.. right. Every time I spoke with the doctors they assured me it was ok. I even went to emergency once where I was assured again, levels looked fine. I was told there was no point in doing a scan, that was just a snapshot of the here and now and wouldn't provide any useful information. I had so many blood tests in a 4 week period and still was told everything would be ok.

On December 7th, I had my first visit with prenatal and was supposed to get all my paperwork in order, and officially be "on the books" When I told them about the bleeding, the midwife said she wouldn't finish my paperwork, that we needed to "Make sure there was still a pregnancy there first" before they would complete it. I mean, I understand why, but the way she said it, it was.. blunt. I had to go for bloods and had a scan booked for next week.

On December 8th, I landed myself in the ER with heavy bleeding, and we received the shattering news that our baby had no heartbeat. She'd stopped growing at just 9 weeks. The doctor wasn't even gentle about it, very matter of fact. After he told us, he was in the room for all of 2 minutes, told me to re-book with my GP and left. That it seems, was that.

Once again, for the second time in my life, I left the same damn hospital empty handed. Once again, my heart has broken. All my fighting for the last few years, and there is still nothing in place in my local hospital for early loss. It makes me so sad, and so angry.

How incredibly hard was it to tell people in the same breath that I was pregnant, but now I'm not anymore. What an impossible conversation, To date, only a handful of people know. It's hard to write it over and over. It's hard to start a conversation when you know you have nothing but sad news. It's hard to shove a smile on your face when you just want to cry. I feel bad for making people sad at Christmas. I guess that's why I waited until after Christmas to write this post. It's my way of letting the world know that my heart hurts.

We decided to name our angel Alice. She may not be here physically, but she will forever be in our hearts.

This little cradle keepsake is made in her memory.

You Will Need:
4ply Cotton Yarn (I used tootgarook cotton by Bella Baby)
2.00mm hook
Small bow

Starting chains don't count in the stitch count.

1: ch15, 2hdc in the second chain from hook, hdc in the next 12 chains, 4hdc in the last chain, continue working around the corner and back down using the same chains you have already crocheted into (to create an oval), hdc in the next 12 chains, 2hdc in the last chain, join to the first hdc. -32hdc (6cm long, 1.5cm wide)

2: ch2, 2hdc in the first stitch, 2hdc in the next stitch, hdc in the next 12 stitches, 2hdc in each of the next 4 stitches, hdc in the next 12 stitches, 2hdc in each of the last 2 stitches, join to the first hdc. - 40hdc (7cm long, 2.5cm wide)

3: ch1, sc in the same stitch, 2sc in the next stitch, sc in the next stitch, 2sc in the next stitch, hdc in the next 12 stitches, *sc in the next stitch, 2sc in the next stitch*, repeat from * to * 3 more times, hdc in the next 12 stitches, *sc in the next stitch, 2sc in the next stitch*, repeat from * to * once more, join to the first sc. - 48 stitches (8cm long, 4cm wide)

4: ch1, sc in the same stitch, sc in the next stitch, 2sc in the next stitch, sc in the next 2 stitches, 2sc in the next stitch, dc in the next 12 stitches, *sc in the next 2 stitchs, 2sc in the next stitch*, repeat from * to * 3 more times, dc in the next 12 stitches, *sc in the next 2 stitchs, 2sc in the next stitch*, repeat from * to * once more, join to the first sc. - 56 stitches (8.7cm long, 5.5cm wide)

5: ch2, hdc in the back loop of the same stitch, hdc in the back loop of each stitch around, join to the first hdc - 56hdc

6-9: ch2, hdc in the same stitch, and in each stitch around, join to the first hdc. (3.2cm tall)

10: slst in the next 15 stitches, ch2, turn, hdc in the same stitch, hdc in the next 23 stitches. - 24

11: ch2, turn, hdc in the same stitch, hdc2tg, hdc in the next 8 stitches, hdc2tg, hdc in the next 8 stitches, hdc2tg, hdc in the last stitch. - 21hdc

12: ch2, turn, hdc in the same stitch, hdc2tg, hdc in the next 2 stitches, hdc2tg, hdc in the next stitch, hdc2tg, hdc in the next 5 stitches, hdc2tg, hdc in th next stitch, hdc2tg, hdc in the last stitch. - 16

13: ch2, turn, hdc in the same stitch, hdc2tg, hdc2tg, hdc in the next stitch, hdc2tg, hdc2tg, hdc in the next stitch, hdc2tg, hdc2tg, hdc in the last stitch. 10hdc

14: ch3, turn. Now this last row gets a little tricky, we're going to gather all the stitches together by doing one big dc10tg (yes, dc ten together) Here is how we do this...

yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull through , yarn over, pull through 2 loops, *yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch and yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through 2 loops* (3 loops on hook), repeat from * to * until you have used all the stitches and have 11 loops on your hook, yarn over once more and pull through all loops, ch1 to secure gather.

15: ch1, turn, sc evenly down the hood, (for me this was 8 sc), [[working in front loops only from here]] sc in the next stitch, hdc in the next stitch, dc into the next stitch *ch3, dc into the next stitch* repeat around until you have 2 stitches remaining before the hood starts, hdc in the next stitch, sc in the next stitch [[working around all loops now]] evenly sc up the side of the hood and join to the first sc. End off and weave in all tails.

Attach bow to the centre top of the hood.

Upcycling Jars into Halloween Props

Good morning all!

Yesterday I posted on my Facebook page asking if everyone would like to see the other crafty endeavours I get up to, and happily, the answer what an astounding and overwhelming YES!

So today I want to share some pieces I've been working on this week.

Halloween is coming, YAY! Here in Australia it is slowly gaining momentum. Last year we took the kids trick or treating and they had OODLES of fun. This year, I gave them the choice. We could go out again, or we could stay in, decorate and scare the pants off of everyone else.

Of course, the girls LOVED the idea of dressing up and decorating, so this year, we're staying in!

My girls are HUGE Five Nights At Freddys fans (horror game series) and originally we wanted to theme our area with that, but with so much else going on, I simply didn't have the hours or supplies to make what we wanted.

So instead we're opting for "Anything Creepy" I jumped on Pinterest to check out cheap and easy prop tutorials. Guys, there are thousands. Seriously. I think I got lost for a few hours in Pinterest. It's insane! I've pinned a bunch to work through for the next few weeks, so we'll see how they go!

Today Im sharing with you our spooky jars. These are upcycled, which is also right up my alley, and super cheap to make, another winner! In fact, I had everything I needed already! YAY for cheap crafts!

I used tutorials by Magia Mia and Fynes Designs for the jars. Of course, I didn't follow exact. I never do!

The eyeballs in a jar was super easy. Ridiculously easy! I used an old mayonnaise jar for this one. Then it was simply a case of printing out some eyeballs from Google, cutting them out and Modge Podging them to the back of the jar, with the coloured side down (so you can see it "inside" the jar). The lid was just some old twine I had laying about and a hot glue gun to attach. Fill it with water and your done! Not counting the drying time (because I let it sit overnight to fully dry) this jar took me less than 10 minutes to complete. Told you it was easy peasy!

The solid jars took a little longer, because I had to wait for drying time. But aside from that they were again very simple. The hardest part was picking my "ingredients" We opted for Bats Blood, Eye of Newt, Poison and everyone's favourite, Troll Snot! To be honest, the troll snot is my fav one ;)

For these I started off by using my glue gun to write the words and draw the images onto the bottles. I did one layer, then let dry and did a second. I wanted the words very raised. For the poison bottle I added some drips with the hot glue, and likewise with the troll snot, some glue bubbling out the side. Don't worry about the stringy bits of glue that go everywhere, it adds to the charm!

From there I gave all 4 a coat of black chalkboard paint, but I wasn't impressed with the coverage so once dry I did a second coat. Then when that dried I mixed some silver paint with an orangy/rust colour and sponged it over the entire area. Then with a fine brush I went back in to do the coloured details.

That's it! Super easy and very effective. My poison and bats blood bottles were originally wild turkey bottles, the troll snot was a jam jar and the eye of newt? That one was an empty spice jar! I was super lazy and didn't peel off the labels either, just gave them a wash and went with it.

So there you go, the start to what Im sure will be our ever growing Halloween prop collection!

30. The Kaila Bonnet

Hello hello beautiful people and hello day 30!

Well guys, here it is! The last pattern for this years hat drive! It's been an incredible month and an incredible effort. I honestly didn't think I'd make it in time, but here it is!

I'd like to say thanks to my testers, who picked up on my mistakes, and an even bigger thankyou to my family and friends, who stuck by me and encouraged me to keep pushing through, even though I'd hit an anxiety wall and didn't think I could.

The Kaila bonnet is a sweet thread bonnet with a variety of stitches. It's so very sweet and while it looks a bit intimidating, even beginners should be ok to tackle this one. It is, absolutely, one of my favourites from this years releases and I plan on making a lot more of them in the next 15 days!

Don't forget that we post all of our hats on the 15th of October, which is Pregnancy and Infant Loss Awareness Day. Feel free to take a photo or a video of yourself posting your hats, tag it #ibghd2016 and share it on my Facebook page, I'd love to see and hear about your hats and your tally!

You can post your hats to

Chance's Clothes Project

c/- Cowra Neighbourhood Centre

15 Vaux St

Cowra NSW 2794

The Kaila Bonnet

Sized To Fit:

24 Weeks Gestation

You Will Need:
2.5mm hook
Crochet Cotton Thread. I used Sullivans natural soft.
2 stitch markers

All stitches are in American terms.

Starting chain counts as a stitch from round 2 onward.

1: Into a magic ring, ch1, sc 12 times, join to the first sc. - 12 1cm/0.3”

2: Ch3, dc in the same stitch, ch3, skip the next stitch *2dc in the next stitch, ch3, skip the next stitch*, repeat around, join to the ch3. 12dc and 6 ch3 spaces 4cm/1.5”

3: Ch3, dc in the same stitch, 2dc in the next stitch, ch3, *skip the next ch3, 2dc in each of the next 2 stitches, ch3*, repeat around, join to the ch3. 24dc 6cm/2.3”

4: NOTE: stitches this round are worked BETWEEN dc's from the previous round (called spaces), not into them. slst into the space between the first 2 dc of the last round, ch3, dc in the same space, 2dc in the next space, 2dc in the next space, ch3, skip the ch3 space, *2dc in each of the next 3 spaces, ch3, skip the next ch3*, repeat around, join to the ch3. - 36dc 8cm/3.1”

5: Ch2, hdc in the same stitch, hdc in the next 5 stitches, 3hdc in the ch3 space, *2hdc in the next stitch, hdc in the next 5 stitches, 3hdc in the ch3 space*, repeat around, join to the ch2. - 60hdc 9cm/3.5”

6: Ch6 (counts as first dc and ch3), dc into the same stitch, skip 3 stitches, *(dc, ch3, dc) into the next stitch, skip 3 stitches*, repeat across, leaving the last 3 stitches unworked, do not join. 30dc

7: Ch3, turn, *4dc in the next ch3 space, ch1*, repeat across, dc in the last stitch (ch3 from previous row. -62

8: Ch4 (counts as first dc and ch1), turn, dc in the next stitch, *(dc, ch3, dc) in the next ch1 space and in each remaining ch1 space across, skip the last 3 dc, dc into the next stitch, ch1, dc into the last stitch (ch3 from previous row). - 32dc

9: Ch3, turn, 2dc into the next ch1 space, *4dc in the next ch3 space*, repeat across, 2dc in the last ch2 space, dc in the last stitch (ch3 from previous row) - 62

10: Ch1, turn, skip the next stitch, sc in the next 58 stitches, skip the next stitch, sc in the last stitch. - 60

11: Ch3 (counts as hdc and ch1), turn, skip the next stitch, *hdc in the next stitch, ch1, skip the next stitch*, repeat across, skip the second last stitch, hdc into the last stitch. -30

12: Ch1 (place 1st marker), turn, 3dc into the first ch1 space, slst into the next ch1 space, *3dc in the next ch1 space, slst in the next ch1 space*, repeat across, into the last ch1 space do 3dc and a sl st (place 2nd marker), then, evenly sc around the neckline until you get to the first stitch marker and slst into that ch1. Ch45, to create first tie, then end off.

Rejoin yarn to the slst with the 2nd stitch marker and ch45 to create the second tie. End off, weave in all tails.

Finished Measurements: 10cm/3.9” from crown to brim and 13cm/5.1” in height across the brim.

29. The Kenai Bonnet

Good morning all!
Day 29, the second last pattern! Only one more to go now guys. It's been a ripper of a month for sure.
Today's bonnet was a suggestion by one of my girls, and I thought well, why not! It turned out so very sweet too. The little bear ears are just adorable. I hope you love this one as much as I do.

The Kenai Bonnet

Sized To Fit:
32 Weeks Gestation

You Will Need:
4mm hook
DK weight/8ply yarn
2 stitch markers

All stitches are in American terms.

Starting chain counts as a stitch from round 2 onward.

1: Into a magic ring, ch3, dc 12 times, join to the first dc. - 12dc 3.5cm/1.3”

2: Ch3, dc in the same stitch, 2dc in each stitch around, join. -24dc 6cm/2.3”

3: Ch3, dc in the same stitch, dc in the next stitch, *2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch*, repeat around, join. - 36dc 8.5cm/3.3”

4: Ch3, dc in the same stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches, *2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches*, repeat around, join. - 48 11cm/4.3”

5: Ch3, dc in the next 45 stitches. - 46dc

6-7: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across. - 46dc

8: Ch2, turn, hdc in each stitch across. -46hdc

9: Ch2 (place marker in second ch), turn, hdc in each stitch across, place a stitch marker in the last hdc, sc evenly along the neckline of the bonnet, when you get to the end slst to the ch2 (first marker), don’t end off.

Chain 50 to make the first tie, end off.

Join yarn to the stitch with the first stitch marker in it and then ch50.

Ears: Make 2 (finished ear size approx. 4cm/ tall, 5cm wide)

1: Into a magic ring, ch2, hdc 10 times, join to first hdc. -10

2: Ch2, hdc in the same stitch, *hdc in the next stitch, 2dc in the next stitch*, repeat around, join to ch2. - 15

3-4: Ch2, hdc in each stitch around, join to ch2.

5: Ch1, sc in each stitch around, join to ch1. End off leaving a long tail to sew to bonnet.

To attach ears. Flatten ear piece so it looks like a half oval. Sew them in place on row 6 using a whip stitch. Depending on your personal preference, you can sew through both layers of the ear, or through each individual stitch around. Either option is fine. Play with the spacing and see which you prefer, mine sit 7cm/2.7” from the bottom of the ear to the bottom of the bonnet and approx. 9cm/3.5” between ears.

Weave in all ends.

Finished Measurements: 11.5cm/4.5” from crown to brim and 16cm/6.2” in height across the brim.

28. The Josie Bonnet

Hello hello and welcome to day 28 (Yes, a day late, I know ;) )

Today's bonnet is the Josie bonnet, and it's a brick type stitch, and an easy 2 row repeat, making it super easy to memorise.
I used a bamboo yarn to make this one, and it is so light and soft and squishy! I really do love bamboo yarns! I know I've said that before, but it's true!

Josie Bonnet

Sized To Fit:
28-30 Weeks Gestation

You Will Need:
DK weight/8ply yarn
4mm hook

All stitches are in American terms.

Leave a long tail (around 18cm) at the start for sewing up the back of the bonnet.

1: Ch47, sc into the second chain from hook and in the next chain, *ch2, skip the next 2 chains, sc in the next 2 chains*, repeat across. -24sc 11 ch2 spaces 20cm/7.8" long

2: Ch3 (counts as first dc), turn, 4dc in the next ch2 space and in each ch2 space across, skip the next sc and dc in the last sc (this will be the right side). - 46dc

3: Ch1, turn, sc in the first dc and in the space before the next 4dc cluster, *ch2, skip 4dc, 2sc in the space before the next 4dc cluster* repeat across to the last 4dc cluster, ch2, skip 4dc, sc in the space after the dc cluster and sc in the last dc (ch3 from prev. row). - 24sc 11 ch2 spaces

4-10: repeat rows 2 and 3, ending on a row 2.

11-13: ch1, turn, sc in each stitch across - 46sc.

14: Ch1 (place marker), turn, sc in each stitch across, place a second marker in the last sc.

Don't end off here, but stop to sew the back of the bonnet closed (wrong sides facing each other) I just whip stitch through the initial chains. (NOTE: I find that the stitches are hidden well enough, but if you are concerned about them being visible, then turn the bonnet so right sides are facing each other, sew the back closed then turn right side out again before continuing.)

Place your hook back into the last sc, and then evenly sc around the neckline of the bonnet. For me this was 33 sc. When you reach the first stitch marker, slst into that stitch, then chain 35 to create the first tie. End off.

Rejoin your yarn at the second stitch marker and chain 35 to make the second tie. Weave in all tails.

Finished Measurements: 10.5cm/4.1” from crown to brim, 11cm/4.3” in height at the shortest point (near the seam) and 14cm/5.5” in height at the longest point across the brim.

27: The Roe Bonnet

Good morning all! Pattern number 27! Woah we're getting there. Almost done now!
How are you going with the hat drive? Have you reached your goals?
Remember, we don't post until the 15th of October.

Today's bonnet features a little bow and stripe in contrasting colours, giving it just enough pop! This bonnet would be great for using up brighter scraps of variegated yarns!

The Roe Bonnet

Sized To Fit:
22 Weeks Gestation

You Will Need:
4.5mm Hook
8ply/DK weight yarn in main (MC) and contrasting (CC) colour.
2 stitch markers.

All stitches are in American terms.

The starting chains count as stitches from round 2 onward.

1: Into a magic ring, ch3, dc 10 times, join to the first dc. - 10dc 3.5cm/1.3”

2: Ch3, dc in the same stitch, 2dc in each stitch around, join to the ch3. - 20dc 6cm/2.3”

3: Ch3, dc in the same stitch, dc in the next stitch, *2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch*, repeat around, join to ch3. -30dc 8.5cm/3.3”

4: Ch3, dc in the next 27 stitches, leaving the last 2 unworked. -28dc

5-6: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across. -28dc end of MC

7: Join CC, ch1, turn, sc in each stitch across. - 28sc end of CC

8: Rejoin MC, ch3 (place marker in first ch), turn, dc in each stitch across (place a second marker in the last dc), when you reach the end sc evenly along the neckline of the bonnet, when you reach the end, slst into the ch with the marker. Chain 35 for the first tie. End off.

Rejoin yarn to the dc with the second stitch marker and chain 35 for the second tie. End off, weave in all tails.

Bow:
With CC

1. Chain 13, sc in the second chain from hook and each remaining chain. -9sc

2-4: Ch1, turn, sc in each stitch across - 12sc

5: Ch1, sc evenly down the side of the rectangle, sc in the chains along the bottom from row 1, sc evenly up the other side, sc in each stitch across, join to the ch1. You should have just sc around the entire rectangle. End off, weave in all tails. Your piece should measure 4.5cm/1.7” x 6.5cm/2.5”

Take a long piece of CC yarn and tie it around the center of the rectangle, this will pull the sides in creating a bow. Tie a knot in the back to keep it in place. Wrap the yarn around the center of the bow a few times and then tie a knot in the back to keep the loops tight and in place. Sew the bow to the side of the bonnet. Weave in tails.

Finished Measurements for the bonnet:

26. The Sasha Bonnet

Good morning all!

Playing catchup today. First, I am terribly sorry for the delay in the last few patterns.
Unfortunately a combination of tech issues, and mental healthy issues have prevented me from getting these done. The tech issues compounded the metal ones, and molehills definitely became mountains. Such is the nature of anxiety, and it's something I've had to learn to roll with.

Still, here we are, a few days late but here anyway! The Sasha bonnet, is a lovely little bonnet to fit a bub of 18 weeks gestation. I used Peter Pan 4ply for this and it is so incredibly soft! If you haven't tried Peter Pan yarn yet, you should, it's soft and spongy and everything I like in a baby yarn!

The Sasha Bonnet

Sized To Fit:
18 Weeks Gestation

You Will Need:
3.25mm hook
4ply/light fingering weight yarn.
2 stitch markers.

All stitches are in American terms.

Starting chain counts as a stitch from round 2 onward.

1: Into a magic ring, ch3, dc 14 times, join to first dc. - 14dc 2.5cm/0.9

2: Ch3, dc in the same stitch, 2dc in each stitch around, join to ch3. - 28dc 4.5cm/1.7"

3: Ch3, dc in the next 25 stitches, leaving the last 2 stitches unworked. - 26

4: Ch3, turn, *skip 1 stitch, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) into the next stitch, skip 1 stitch*, repeat across, dc in the last stitch. -34dc

5: Ch3, turn, (2dc, ch1, 2dc) in each ch1 space across, dc in the last stitch.

6: Repeat row 5

7: Ch3 (place marker in 3rd chain), turn, (2dc, ch3, 2dc) in each ch1 space across, dc in the last stitch (place second marker). sc evenly along the neckline, when you get to the end of the neckline slst into the chain where you placed the first marker. Chain 50 for the first tie. End off.

Rejoin yarn to the stitch with the second stitch marker and ch50 for the second tie. End off, weave in all ends.

Finished measurements 8.5cm/3.3" from crown to brim and 10.5cm/4.1" from top to bottom.

25. The Rosemary Bonnet

Good morning all and welcome to day 25.

Not many to go now. What a whirlwind month it's been! I'm so proud of each and every one of you who have joined in and made hats. Be it 1 or 100! You have all put in such an effort. 

Today's bonnet, the Rosemary, features the side cluster. It would look great in all one colour, with 2 like I used, or even with 3 colours!

The Rosemary Bonnet

Sized To Fit:
36-38 Weeks Gestation

You Will Need:
4mm hook
8ply/DK Weight yarn in main MC (pink) and contrasting CC (white) colours

All stitches are in American terms.

Instructions between * to * are to be repeated.

Starting chains counts as a stitch from rounds 2 onward.

Special Stitch: Side Cluster: Worked around the post of the stitch before it. *yo, pick up a loop around the post of the previous stitch, yo, pull through 2 loops* (2 on hook), repeat from * to * (3 on hook), repeat from * to * (4 on hook), yo, pull through all 4 loops.

With MC yarn;

1: Into a magic ring, ch3, dc 12 times, join to the 1st dc. - 12dc 2.5cm/.9”

2: Ch3, dc into the same stitch, 2dc in each stitch around, join to the ch3. - 24dc 6cm/2.3”

3: Ch3, dc in the same stitch, dc in the next stitch, *2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch*, repeat around, join to the ch3. 36dc 8cm/3.1”

4: ch3, dc in the same stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches, *2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches*, repeat around, join. 48dc 11cm/4.3”

5: ch3, dc in the next 45 stitches, leaving the last 2 unworked. - 46dc

6: ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across. -46dc

7: Change to CC, ch3, turn, *dc in the next stitch, side cluster around the dc just made, skip the next stitch*, repeat across, dc in the last stitch. -22 side clusters, 24dc

8: Ch1, turn, sc in each stitch across. - 46sc

9-10: Change to MC, repeat rows 7 and 8.

NOTE: Place a stitch marker in the ch1 on row 12, we’ll need to see this stitch later.

11-12: Change to CC, repeat rows 7 and 8. End off.

13. Turn your hat with the right side facing out (it’ll be inside out after row 12). With the crown facing away from you, join your white yarn to the ch1 from row 12 (the one we marked), and sc evenly along the neckline of the bonnet, slst in the last stitch of the previous row placing a stitch marker here. For me that was 31sc, you might have more or less depending on your yarn and hook size. End off.

With your MC, chain 60, join to the same stitch with the marker and ch2, hdc in each stitch across the brim of the bonnet (working into stitches from row 12), when you reach the end, chain another 60 to make the second tie. Fasten off.

Finished Measurements: 14cm from crown to brim and 18cm in height across the brim.

24. The Daisy Bonnet

Good morning all and hello day 24! Only 6 days left and we'll hit 30! Incredible!
Today's bonnet is a take on the Robin bonnet, a bit bigger and some lovely little picots to frame the face. So sweet!

The Daisy Bonnet.

Sized To Fit:
20 Weeks Gestation

You Will Need:
4.5mm hook
DK weight/8ply yarn in a main and contrasting colour

All stitches are in American terms.

Starting chain counts as a stitch from round 2 onwards.

Special Stitch: Picot - chain 3, slst into the 3rd chain from hook. Picot complete.

1: Into a magic ring, ch3, dc 10 times, join to the first dc. - 10dc 3cm/1.1"

2: Ch3, dc in the same stitch, 2dc in each stitch around, join to the ch3. - 20dc 5.5cm/2.1"

3: Ch3, dc in the same stitch, dc into the next stitch, *2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch*, repeat around, join. - 30dc 8cm/3.1"

4: Ch3, dc in the next 26 stitches. - 27dc

5: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across. - 27dc

6: Ch2, place a marker in 2nd chain, turn, hdc in each stitch across. -27dc

7: Ch1, evenly sc along the neckline of the bonnet, until you reach the stitch marker (ch2) from row 6 and slst into it. For me this was 16 stitches. End off and weave in tails. Leave the stitch marker in place.

With contrasting colour chain 35, join to the same stitch your marker is in, ch1, sc in the next 2 stitches, picot, *sc in the next 3 stitches, picot*, repeat 6 more times, sc in the last 3 stitches, chain 35 to make the second tie. End off.

Finished Measurements: 8.5cm/3.3” wide from crown to top of picor on brim, 10.5cm/4.1” in height.

23. The Poppy Bonnet

Good morning all and hello day 23!

Today's bonnet, the Poppy bonnet, is a sweet little thing featuring a soft scalloped edge, and decorated with a bright pop of colour with a flower and a button. Not only is it easy, but it uses so little yarn, that it makes an excellent scrapbuster!

Poppy Bonnet.

Sized To Fit:
20 Weeks Gestation

You will need:
For the bonnet
4mm hook
8ply/DK weight yarn for the bonnet

For the flower:
2.5mm hook
Embroidery or cotton thread or 3/4ply/light/fingering weight yarn in a contrasting colour, I used some variegated embroidery thread.
1 bead or button for the flower centre

All stitches are in American terms.

Starting chain counts as a stitch from round 2 onwards.

1: Into a magic ring, ch3, dc 10 times, join to the first dc. - 10dc 2.5cm/0.9”

2: Ch3 (counts as first stitch here and throughout), dc into the same stitch, 2dc in each stitch around, join. - 20dc 5.5cm/2.1”

3: Ch3, dc into the same stitch, dc into the next stitch, *2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch*, repeat around, join. - 30dc 7.5cm/2.9”

4: Ch3, dc in the next 27 stitches, leaving the last 2 unworked. - 28dc

5-6: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across. - 28

7: Ch3 (place a marker in the 1st chain), turn, dc in the same stitch, slst in the next stitch, *2dc in the next stitch, slst in the next stitch*, repeat across, when you get to the last slst. Chain 40 to make the first tie, then fasten off. Your bonnet is currently inside out, so turn it right side out.

Join your yarn to the other corner of the bonnet (this will be the 1st chain of the starting ch3 from row 7, where you placed the marker) and chain 40 to make the second tie. Fasten off.

Finished Measurements: 8cm/3.1” in width from crown to brim, 11cm/4.3” in height at the tallest section.

Flower:

1: ch2, sc 10 times in the first chain, join to first sc.

2: ch2, 2hdc in the same stitch, slst in the next stitch, *3hdc in the next stitch, slst in the next stitch* repeat around, Slst to the 1st chain of starting ch2 to join.

End off, leaving a long tail to sew flower to bonnet.

When attaching flower to bonnet sew a button into the center.

Flower is approx. 3.5cm/1.3” at its widest point.

22. The Miss Ellie Bonnet

Good morning all and welcome to day 22!
Today's wee bonnet is a simple striped pattern with a ribbed brim. It would look fantastic in all sorts of colours. It's also very quick to do, and a good project for anyone who is just learning to do front and back post stitches.

Miss Ellie Bonnet

Sized To Fit:
20 Weeks Gestation

You Will Need:
4mm hook
8ply/DK weight yarn in 2 colours. (A pink)(B white)


All stitches are in American terms.

Leave a long tail at the start before your slipknot to sew the back up later.


1: With colour A chain 29, dc in the 3rd chain from hook and each across. -27

2: Ch1, turn, sc in each stitch across. 27

3: Change to colour B, ch2, turn, dc in each stitch across. -27

4: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across. -27

5: Change to colour A, ch1, turn, sc in each stitch across. -27

6: Ch1, turn, sc in each stitch across. -27

7: Change to colour B, ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across. -27

8: Ch3, turn, *fpdc around the next stitch, bpdc around the next stitch*, repeat across, the last stitch will be a bpdc around the ch3 from the start of the previous row. -27

9: Ch3, turn, *bpdc, fpdc*, repeat across, the last stitch will be a fpdc around the ch3 from the start of the previous row. -27 (right side)

End off.

Rectangle will be 20cm/7.9” wide and 8.5cm/3.3” tall. The last few rows of ribbing will pinch in making the bonnet shorter at the top than the bottom.

Turn piece over so row 9 is facing the down, fold rectangle in half wrong sides together, and sew the back seam closed (row 1) Weave in any tails.

With colour B chain 40, join to the last stitch of row 9 with a slst and ch1, sc evenly along the bottom (neckline) of the bonnet, when you get to the other corner, place your last sc in the ch3 from row 9's charting chain, then ch40 to make the second tie. End off.

Finished Measurements: 10.5cm/4.1” height, 9cm/3.5” in width from brim to back seam.

21. The Flora Bonnet

Hello lovelies and welcome to day 21. We've stopped counting up now and started counting down! Only 9 more patterns remain to be released. This month has flown by! Today's bonnet is the Flora bonnet, and it's a very easy one 1 repeat, making it super easy to remember! It's dainty flowers add the perfect touch.

Flora Bonnet

Sized To Fit:
18/20 Weeks Gestation

You Will Need:

For the bonnet
4mm hook
8ply/DK weight yarn in a main colour for the bonnet.

For the flower
2mm hook
Thread, embroidery cotton or 3/4 ply/light/fingering weight yarn to make the flowers

Start with a long tail to sew the top of the bonnet together later.

1: Ch30, Sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch3, sc in next ch, skip next ch, *sc in next ch, ch3, sc in next ch, skip next ch* repeat across, turn. - 20sc, 10 ch3 spaces 15.5cm/6.1”

2-11: Ch 1, (sc, ch3, sc) in ea ch3 space across, turn. - 20sc, 10 ch3 spaces

End off. Your piece should now be 15.5cm/6.1” wide and 10cm/3.9” tall.

Fold your piece in half as shown below and sew the chain edge together with a whip stitch. This seam will become the top of the bonnet.

Flower 1

1: ch2, hdc 8 times in the 2nd chain from hook, join to the first hdc. - 8

2: Ch1, (2dc, slst) into the first stitch, (slst, 2dc, slst) into each remaining stitch around, slst to join.


Flower 2

1: ch2, hdc 6 times in the 2nd chain from hook, join to the first hdc. - 6

2: (2dc, slst) into the first stitch, (slst, 2dc, slst) into each remaining stitch around, slst to join.

Leave long tails on the flowers so you can sew them onto the bonnet.

For the tie:

You will need a length of 50cm. I used the same thread I made the flowers from and chained until I reached 50cm/19.7”. You could use a contrasting yarn, or some ribbon or lace to make your ties.

Weave the ties in and out of the spaces at the front of the bonnet.

20. The Margaret Bonnet

Good morning all and hello day 20! Only 10 more patterns left to go. Are you keeping up? Have a favourite so far?

Today's bonnet has a lot of subtle little textures, without going too extreme for such small delicate heads. I love using the 3rd loop stitch, and if it's one your not familiar with, pop onto google for a look. It's a lot of fun to use! 

Margaret Bonnet

Sized To Fit:
16 weeks gestation

You Will Need
8ply/DK weight yarn in a main and contrasting colour
4.5mm hook

All stitches are in American terms.

If you are new to crocheting, or new to bonnets, I recommend marking your first and last stitch of the rows with a stitch marker, so you can more easily see where they are.

1: Ch2, into a magic ring, hdc 11 times, join to the first stitch. - 11dc 2.5cm/0.9”

2: Ch2 (counts as first stitch), hdc in the same stitch, 2hdc in each stitch around, join to ch2. - 22 4.5cm/1.7”

3: Ch2, hdc in the next 20 stitches, do not join. - 21 6.5cm/2.5”

This next row uses the "3rd loop" to crochet in. Usually this is on the rear of the stitch, but because we turned our bonnet to work across the row, it'll be in front. Here is a photo to show you.

4: Ch2, turn, hdc in the 3rd loop of each stitch across (the last one will be a bit hard to see). There will be 20hdc plus your ch2, do not hdc in the starting chain from the previous round. - 21

5: Ch2, turn, hdc in the same stitch as starting chain, hdc in each stitch across, do not crochet in the turning chain. - 21 (20 + ch2)

6: Repeat round 4

7: Ch1, turn, sc in the back loop of each stitch across. -21 (To help you attach ties later, place a stitch marker in the first stitch of this row)

Do not end, rotate your bonnet CLOCKWISE and sc evenly along the neckline of the bonnet, (around 20-23 stitches on average) join with a slst to the first sc of row 7.

End main colour.

For ties and brim:
With contrasting colour, chain 25 -

Holding your bonnet so that the rear of the bonnet is facing you and the neck opening is facing right-

Join yarn with a slst to the back loop of the first sc of row 7, sc in each stitch, back loop only, across, when you get to the end chain another 25 stitches to make the second tie. End off and weave in tails.

Finished Measurements: Total height 7cm/2.7" and 6.5cm/2.5" in width from crown to brim.

19. The Samantha Bonnet

Day 19! Wow talk about going fast. My little stash of hats to post is growing by the day. Well over 50 now. How incredible! I can't wait to see how many come in. Don't forget we post on October 15th.

Today's bonnet is a very very easy one. It only uses dc rows, some chains and some scs. Pretty simple right? Right! But, it's the trim that makes this bonnet extra special. Bust out your fun yarns guys, because this bonnet is perfect for them. I've used chenille for a soft fluffy finish, but you can really go wild here.

Samantha Bonnet

Sized To Fit
28-30 weeks gestation

You Will Need:
4mm hook
10ply/worsted weight yarn. I used Moda Vera Adalyn, which is sadly discontinued, but it feels a little lighter than other worsted weights I've used.
A contrasting colour, I used a chenille yarn, by craftworks, but any 10ply/worsted weight will do.

1: ch22, dc into the 2nd chain from hook, dc in the next 19 chains, 3dc in the last chain, now, working on the opposite side of the stitches you just made (into the same chains) dc in each chain across (20 total), do not join. - 43 12cm/4.7” long and 3cm/1.1” wide

2. ch3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), turn, dc in each stitch across, the last stitch will be in the skipped chain from the first round. - 43

3-9. ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across, last stitch will be in the ch3 from the previous round. - 43

After row 9, sc evenly along the neckline, and join to the 3rd chain of the ch3 from row 9.

End off.

Grab your contrasting colour and chain 25 (20cm in length, you may need more or less depending on yarn choice), join your yarn to the top of the starting ch3 from row 9. ch1, sc in each stitch across the brim of the bonnet, when you reach the end of the row chain another 25 to complete the second tie. End off and weave in tails.

Finished Measurements: 14.5cm/5.7” in height, not including ties, and 11.5cm/4.5” in total width from crown to brim.

18. The Joyce Bonnet

Morning all and hello day 18. Starting to really power through all these hats now!

Today's hat is a lovely lacy open stitch bonnet made using crochet thread. Of course, you can always use some 4ply acrylic as well if that's all you have on hand. This bonnet is so light weight and just so lovely. I hope you like it too!


Joyce Bonnet

Sized To Fit:
28 Weeks Gestation

You Will Need:

Optional: Stitch Marker
3mm hook
Cotton thread. I used Sullivans International natural soft crochet cotton, which is a 4ply equivalent. However, unlike acrylic, cotton thread has no fuzz, so if you are using an acrylic, your hat may be slightly wavy at the end of round 5. This should even out as you continue with the next round.

Special Stitch: V Stitch - (dc, ch1, dc) in the same stitch or space.

All stitches are in American terms.

1: Into a magic ring, ch3, dc 8 times, join to the first dc. - 8dc 1.5cm/0.5”

2: Ch3 (counts as first st here and throughout), dc in the same stitch, 2dc in each stitch around, join to the ch3. - 16dc 3cm/1.1”

3: Ch3, dc in the same stitch, dc in the next stitch, *2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch*, repeat around, join to the ch3. - 24dc 5cm/1.9”

4: Ch3, dc in the same stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches, *2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 2 stitches*, repeat around, join to the ch3. -32dc 7cm/2.7”

5: Ch3, dc in the same stitch, 2dc in each stitch around, join to the ch3. -64dc 9.5cm/3.7”

6: Ch1 (counts as first sc), *ch2, skip 3 stitches, dc 5 times in the next stitch, ch2, skip the next 3 stitches, sc in the next stitch*, repeat around, the last sc will be made in the same stitch as the starting chain, do not join. From here on we will work in rows. -8 5dc shells, 9scs

7: Ch5 (counts as first dc and ch2), turn, skip the next ch2 space, and the next 2 dcs, into the next dc make a v stitch, ch2, skip the next 2 dcs and the next ch2 space, dc in the next sc, *ch2, skip the next ch2 space and the next 2 dcs, v stitch in the next dc, ch2, skip the next 2 dcs and the next ch2 space, dc in the next sc*, repeat across, the last sc will be in the first ch from the previous round.

8: Ch5 (counts as first dc and ch2), turn, skip the first ch2 space, 5dc into the first ch1 space of v stitch, ch2, skip the next ch2 space, dc in the next dc, *ch2, skip the next ch2 space, 5dc in the next ch1 v space, ch2, skip the next ch2 space, dc in the next dc*, repeat around, the last dc will be made in the 3rd chain from the previous rounds starting ch5.

9: Ch5 (counts as dc and ch2), turn, skip the first ch2 space and the next 2 dcs, v stitch in the next dc, ch2, skip the next 2 dcs and the next ch2 space, dc in the next dc, *ch2, skip the next ch2 space and the next 2 dcs, v stitch in the next ch1 space, ch2, skip the next 2 dcs, skip the next ch2 space, dc in the next dc*, repeat around, the last dc will be made in the 3rd chain from the previous rounds starting ch5.

10: Repeat row 8

NOTE: Place a stitch marker into the first stitch of row 11, so you know where to join your ties later.

11: Ch1, turn, sc into the first ch2 space, sc in the next 5 dcs, sc in the next ch2 space, sc in the next dc, *sc in the next ch2 space, sc in the next 5 dcs, sc in the next ch2 space, sc in the next dc*, repeat across, do not end.

12: This next section will be crocheted around the neckline of your bonnet, (the part that sits at the back of the head and under the ears) you will need to sc evenly around it, I found that by putting 2sc in the starting chain spaces and 1sc in place where the last row stitch was made into a join gave me the neatest finish. You could also sc in the chains themselves. Once you've done the whole thing join to the first stitch of row 11. End off. (Depending on your spacing, you should have between 18 and 20 stitches here)

For the ties: ch40, join your yarn to the first stitch of row 11, sc in each stitch across, when you get to the last stitch ch41, turn, sc in the second stitch from hook and the remaining chains, then sc back across the front of the bonnet in each stitch, when you reach the start of the first 40 chains, sc in each ch to the end.

Finished Measurements: From the crown to the edge 10.5cm/4.1” and from top to bottom 15.5cm/6.1” Ties are approx. 16cm/6.2”

17. The Jennifer Bonnet

Hello hello! Welcome to day 17. Our second little bonnet for the Itty Bitty Giant Hat Drive. Oh and it's a sweet one too. A little bit lacy and a whole heap delicate, the Jennifer bonnet is sure to be cherished.

How is everyone going with their hats so far? Don't forget that you can email me any photos of the pieces you've made for the hat drive, or from my patterns in general, and I'll add them to the fan albums on Facebook.

Jennifer Bonnet

Sized To Fit:
16 weeks gestation

You Will Need:
DK weight/8ply yarn
3mm hook

All stitches in American terms

1: Into a magic ring, ch3, dc 10 times, join to the first dc. - 10

2: Ch3 (counts as first stitch), dc in the same stitch, 2dc in each stitch around, join to ch3. - 20 (4.5cm/1.7”)

3: Ch3 (counts as first stitch), dc in the same stitch, dc in the next stitch, *2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch*. Repeat around, join to ch3. - 30 (6cm/2.3”)

4: ch1, sc in the next stitch, *ch5, skip 1 stitch, sc in the next stitch*, repeat 12 more times - 14sc, 13 groups of 5chs

5: Ch3 (counts as dc), turn, sc in the center of the ch5 space, *ch1, sc in the center of the next ch5 space, repeat across, dc in the last sc. - 13sc, 2dc and 12chs

6: Ch1, turn, sc in the first 2 stitches, *1sc in the next ch1 space, 1sc in the next stitch*, repeat across, sc in the turning chain - 27sc

7: Ch1, turn, sc in the next stitch, *ch5, skip 1 stitch, sc in the next stitch*, repeat 12 more times - 14sc, 13 groups of 5chs

8: Ch3 (counts as dc), turn, sc in the center of the ch5 space, *ch1, sc in the center of the next ch5 space, repeat across, dc in the last sc. - 13sc, 2dc and 12chs

9: Ch1, turn, sc in the first 2 stitches, *1sc in the next ch1 space, 1sc in the next stitch*, repeat across, sc in the turning chain, chain 30, end off. - 27sc, 20ch

10. Join your yarn to the other corner and ch30 to make the second tie. End off. Weave in all tails.

Finished Measurements: Height from bottom to top of brim 7cm/2.7” and width from crown to front of bonnet 7cm/2.7”

16. The Robin Bonnet

Morning all and welcome to day 16. We're now onto the bonnet portion of the months patterns!
The first one I have for you today is both tiny and easy. So easy in fact, that I can now make these in about 15 minutes flat! Now that's what I call some fast hookin'! These itty bonnets are perfect for using up the last few meters of yarn and can be made in so many colours!

Robin Bonnet

Sized To Fit:
12 Weeks Gestation

You Will Need:
2.5mm hook
4ply/fingering weight yarn in a main and a contrasting colour.

All stitches are in American terms.

1: Into a magic ring, ch1, sc 10 times, join to the first sc. - 10

2: Ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in the same stitch, 2dc in each stitch around, join to the ch3. - 20

3: Ch3, dc in the next 19 stitches, do not join. - 19

4: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across. - 19

5: Ch3, turn, dc in each stitch across, do not end - 19

6: Ch1, sc along the bottom of the bonnet evenly, for me that was 13 sc, it may be more or less depending on the thickness of the yarn you use.


Finish off, weave in tails.

With your contrasting yarn chain 15, hold your bonnet so the neckline is facing right, and the front facing away from you, join your yarn with a sc the first sc from round 5, ch2, hdc in each stitch across the front of the bonnet, when you reach the last stitch ch2 and slst into the side of the first sc from round 5. Ch25, end off.


Finished Measurements: 5cm/1.9” in height and 5cm/1.9” in width from crown to brim.

15. The Betty Beanie

Hello beautiful people!

Wow day 15 and we've officially hit the halfway mark! This also means this is the last beanie pattern. Tomorrow, we move on to bonnets! Excited? Oh I am! I LOVE bonnets!

Today's beanie is the Betty beanie, and it's a nice simple one with a pretty trim. It's very quick to make, and great for using up the last part of a ball of yarn.


The Betty Beanie 

Sized To Fit:
18 Weeks Gestation

You Will Need:
DK weight/8ply yarn in a main and a contrasting colour
3.75mm hook

All stitches are in American terms.

1: Into a magic ring, ch3, dc 10 times, join to the first dc. - 10dc

2: Ch3 (Counts as first stitch from here on), dc in the same stitch, 2dc in each stitch around, join. - 20 (5cm/1.9”)

3: Ch3, dc in the same stitch, dc in the next stitch, *2dc in the next stitch, dc in the next stitch*, repeat around, join to the ch3 - 30 (7cm/2.7”)

4-5: Ch3. dc in each stitch around, join to ch3. - 30

6: Ch3 (counts as first hdc and ch1), skip the next stitch, *hdc in the next stitch, ch1, skip 1 stitch*, repeat around, join to the second chain. - 15hdc, 15ch

7: Change to contrasting colour, ch1, *dc in the skipped stitch from the previous round (being sure to work behind the ch1, not in front of it), sc in the next stitch*, repeat around, join to the ch1. - 30

8: Ch1, sc in each stitch around, join to the ch1.

End off, weave in tails.

Finished Measurements: Total height 7.5cm/2.9” and 9.5cm/3.7” in width across the brim.

14. The Carrie Beanie

Good morning all, and hello day 14. Woah, 2 weeks in already, we're almost halfway there. This month sure is flying. How are you all going with your hats?

I want to just touch this morning on sizing. The blue hat is the one the measurements are based on for this pattern. I used a 2.5mm hook as stated, and King Cole Bamboo Cotton 4ply. The finished hat is sized for about 12 weeks gestation. The pink hat beside it uses Jaeger Siena Cotton, which is also a 4ply yarn, and a 2.5mm hook. It is 5.5cm in height and 7cm total width, and comes in closer to 14 weeks gestation. This is considerably larger than the first hat, yet both yarns are listed as 4ply/fingering weight. I know this can be a tad frustrating, but when it comes to hats this small, it's incredibly easy to go from one size to the next just by changing the yarn brand! This is something that doesn't effect larger hats quite so much, because there is a larger gap between one size to the next.

Luckily for us, charities and foundations across the globe can use all sizes! So unless you are making them for a specific bub, you'll be fine.

 

Carrie Beanie

Sized To Fit:
Approx 12-14 weeks gestation, depending on yarn thickness

You Will Need:
2.5mm hook
Fingering weight/4ply yarn

1: Into a magic ring, ch2, hdc 9 times, join to the first hdc - 9

2: Ch4 (counts as first sc and ch3), sc in the next stitch, ch3, *sc in the next stitch, ch3*, repeat around, join to the 1st chain - 9sc, 27chs (3.5cm/1.3”)

3: Slst into the first ch3 space, ch4 (counts as first sc and ch3), sc in the same space, (sc, ch3, sc) in each ch3 space around, join to the first chain. - 18sc (4.5cm/1.7” across widest points)

4-8: Repeat round 3

End off, weave in tails.

Finished Measurements: 5.5cm/2.1” total height, 6cm/2.3” total width